Attractions
Backroads Bites: Smokin’ Joe’s Rib Ranch
Jollyville, Oklahoma
A few weeks ago, some friends managed to talk my boyfriend and me into driving south of Davis, Okla., to eat at Smokin’ Joe’s Rib Ranch. Just to clarify, this 40 minute trip was strictly to go eat. While Davis is a charming Oklahoma town that I’m fond of, it’s not a mecca of entertainment. I’ll admit that in my six years of making weekend trips from Texas to Oklahoma, I’d frequently passed the restaurant and pondered if it would be worth stopping in. While we had listened to our friends talk about the deliciousness of the restaurant and the heaping servings of food you get with your meals, we weren’t convinced it could be good enough to drive an hour and a half round-trip.
Which is why you should listen to me when I say you should take the time to stop in for a slab of ribs, a heaping pile of pulled pork, a hot link or two, or any of the other delectable meats they have on the menu.
With some research, I found that the owners of Smokin’ Joe’s Rib Ranch began cooking BBQ in their Sulphur, Okla., gas station in 2004. Soon, the lines for BBQ got longer than the lines for gas, and soon they were looking for a second location. The original plan had been for a seasonal location, but they found a small bar south of Davis, and the family began the task of refurbishing it. When it opened in December of 2007, it boasted 34 chairs (including two high chairs), and a drive-up window.
Things have certainly changed since then. The restaurant is open from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday, and from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Friday and Saturday. It’s closed on Sundays and Wednesdays.
Smokin’ Joe’s, located just off of I35, also has several RV parks, and is in close proximity to the Arbuckle Mountains, the Chickasaw National Recreation Area, and Arbuckle Lake. With a chic western boutique also on the premises, it also provides for a great shopping opportunity.
For more information about Smokin’ Joe’s Rib Ranch, you can find them on Facebook or visit the website at www.SmokinJoesRibRanch.com.
Attractions
When the Rains Come: How Oklahoma Got Its Lakes
By the time April settles in across Oklahoma, you can feel the change coming.
The air gets heavier. The wind shifts. Clouds start building in a way that makes you pay attention. And sooner or later, the rains come.
At first, it’s welcome. Pastures green up almost overnight. Stock tanks catch water again. Dust that’s hung in the air for months finally settles. But in Oklahoma, rain has never come without a little hesitation. Because as much as you need it, you also know what it can do.
Too little, and you’re watching grass fade before summer even gets started. Too much, and creeks spill over, low crossings disappear, and rivers remind you just how wide they can get when they want to.
That push and pull—between drought and flood—is what shaped this state long before most of its lakes ever existed. Because the truth is, Oklahoma wasn’t always a place defined by water.
It was a place defined by uncertainty.
Before dams were built, rivers like the Red River and the Arkansas River didn’t follow a dependable pattern. They spread wide and shallow across sandbars during dry stretches, then turned around and flooded everything in reach when heavy rains set in. Smaller creeks followed the same pattern, running dry one season and cutting through fields the next.
For the people trying to make a living on that land, there wasn’t much room for error. A wet spring could wash out crops. A dry summer could leave livestock without reliable water. There wasn’t a system to balance it. You took what came and dealt with the consequences.
By the early 1900s, the consequences were getting harder to ignore. Flooding events damaged towns and farmland across southern Oklahoma, and then, just a couple of decades later, the problem flipped entirely. The Dust Bowl exposed how quickly the state could swing in the opposite direction. Water that had once been destructive became scarce enough to threaten everything from crops to daily survival.
That stretch of years made one thing clear. If Oklahoma was going to grow, it couldn’t keep relying on chance.
Water had to be managed.
Starting in the 1930s, that management took shape in the form of dams. Large-scale projects, led primarily by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers and the Bureau of Reclamation, began to change the landscape of the state in a way that’s still visible today.
The goal wasn’t simply to create lakes. It was to solve multiple problems at once—control flooding, store water for dry periods, supply growing towns, and in some cases generate hydroelectric power.
Projects like Lake Texoma, completed in 1944, and Lake Eufaula, completed in 1964, reshaped entire regions. Grand Lake O’ the Cherokees, finished in 1940, brought electricity to rural communities while also becoming a long-term water resource.
But those lakes didn’t appear on empty ground.
Before the water rose, land had to be cleared. Timber was cut. Structures were moved. Roads were rerouted. In some cases, entire communities were relocated to higher ground. Families left land that had been theirs for generations, knowing it would soon sit under water.
Even with all that work, not everything could be removed. And when lake levels drop during drought years, pieces of what was there before have a way of showing themselves again—old foundations, fence lines, stretches of road that don’t lead anywhere anymore.
It’s easy to forget that part when the water is full and calm, but it’s there.
What followed, though, is what most people recognize today. The lakes became part of everyday life in Oklahoma. They provided more dependable water for agriculture and livestock. They supported growing towns and industries. And over time, they turned into places people chose to spend their time—fishing, boating, gathering on summer weekends along shorelines that didn’t exist a century ago.
What started as a solution became something much bigger.
And even now, those lakes are doing exactly what they were built to do. They catch the heavy rains when they come. They hold water through the dry stretches. They give the state a level of stability it didn’t have before.
Because the same cycle still exists. The rains come in April. The heat follows. And somewhere between the two, Oklahoma continues to rely on a system that was built to handle both.
Sidebar: What’s Under the Water?
There’s a reason people sometimes hesitate when they think too hard about what’s beneath Oklahoma’s lakes.
Because it’s not just water.
Under lakes like Lake Texoma and Lake Eufaula are the remains of what used to be there:
- Old home sites and foundations
- Roads and bridge approaches
- Fence lines and property boundaries
- Tree stumps and submerged timber
- Wells, cellars, and farm structures
Most areas were cleared before flooding, but with that much ground to cover, it was never complete.
When water levels drop, some of it comes back into view. The rest stays hidden.
It’s not something most people think about while they’re out on the water. But once the thought crosses your mind, it tends to stick.
Attractions
Lessons from the Dust Bowl
In the heart of the 1930s, amid the Great Depression and one of the worst droughts in American history, the central plains of the United States became the backdrop for a crisis that left millions of acres of farmland devastated. The Dust Bowl wasn’t just a period of bad weather—it was a consequence of environmental mismanagement, economic desperation, and unpreparedness on a massive scale. It remains one of the clearest warnings in American agricultural history about the costs of forgetting how to work with, rather than against, the land.
While the images that often come to mind are of blackened skies, desperate families, and abandoned fields, the lessons reach far beyond the Panhandle and remain startlingly relevant today. Whether you’re running a large operation or managing a backyard garden or small herd, the core truth is the same: soil is a resource, not a guarantee. And if we don’t take care of it, we will lose it.
What Set the Stage
The Dust Bowl didn’t come out of nowhere. It was decades in the making. Beginning in the early 20th century, settlers flooded into the Southern Plains, drawn by promises of fertile soil, good rainfall, and land made available by the Homestead Act. By the time World War I increased the global demand for wheat, thousands of acres had been plowed under and put into production.
The land these new farmers encountered had been covered in native prairie grasses for centuries—plants with deep root systems that anchored the soil and held moisture through dry seasons. But those grasses weren’t seen as valuable. They were replaced with wheat, corn, and cotton. Tractors, stronger and faster than teams of horses, made it possible to farm more land more quickly. What followed was a dramatic change in land use with little thought given to how fragile the soil might be without those native plants.
During the wet years, the gamble paid off. Farmers saw high yields, bought more land, and borrowed heavily to expand. But the good weather was temporary, and by the time the 1930s arrived with a crippling drought, the damage had already been done. The soil had no protection. There were no roots to hold it in place, no moisture to keep it settled, and no plan for what to do when the rain stopped coming.
Life During the Dust Bowl
The Dust Bowl era began in earnest around 1931. Over the next several years, the Great Plains endured a nearly unbroken string of drought, high temperatures, and relentless wind. With millions of acres laid bare, the wind picked up the dry, loose topsoil and carried it for miles—sometimes hundreds of miles. The worst dust storm, known as “Black Sunday,” hit on April 14, 1935. It turned day into night and dropped an estimated 300,000 tons of soil over the eastern states.
Oklahoma, particularly the Panhandle, was one of the hardest-hit regions. Families did what they could to protect themselves. They hung wet sheets over windows, stuffed rags under doors, and wore handkerchiefs over their noses and mouths. But nothing kept the dust out. It coated food, filled lungs, and blanketed every surface. Children developed dust pneumonia. Cattle died with stomachs full of sand. Crops failed, wells ran dry, and the ground cracked open.
For many, the breaking point came not from a single storm, but from the relentless accumulation of hardship. Crops couldn’t be harvested, and without income, mortgages couldn’t be paid. Banks foreclosed on farms. Families loaded up what they could and headed west. The term “Okie”—originally just shorthand for someone from Oklahoma—became a label for the displaced and desperate.
Writers like John Steinbeck captured the human cost of the Dust Bowl in books like The Grapes of Wrath, but no novel or photograph can fully convey what it meant to live through those years. Still, from those struggles came a growing realization: something had to change.
Recovery and Reform
In response to the unfolding disaster, the federal government took unprecedented action. In 1935, the Soil Conservation Service was created, now part of the USDA’s Natural Resources Conservation Service. Its goal was simple but ambitious: teach farmers how to work the land in ways that would keep this from ever happening again.
Extension agents went farm to farm with practical advice. They introduced contour plowing to reduce runoff, encouraged planting windbreaks of trees to slow the wind, and advocated for strip cropping—alternating rows of crops with protective vegetation. In some places, marginal land was retired from agriculture altogether and converted back to grassland. These changes didn’t yield instant results, but they began the long process of restoring the land’s health.
By the early 1940s, rainfall had started to return. World War II increased the demand for farm products again, but this time, lessons from the Dust Bowl influenced how that demand was met. The soil conservation movement had taken root, and with it came a new understanding: soil health is national security.
Preventing Another Dust Bowl
Today’s farmers face a different landscape, but the fundamental challenge remains the same. The land still has limits. Modern conservation practices are built on what was learned during the Dust Bowl and have continued to evolve. No-till and minimum-till systems preserve soil structure. Cover cropping adds organic matter and keeps the ground protected between harvests. Rotational grazing mimics the patterns of native herbivores, promoting plant diversity and healthier pastures.
Federal programs still offer support through the NRCS, helping landowners implement conservation plans tailored to their operations. Education is more accessible than ever, with local conservation districts, university extensions, and farmer-led groups all sharing knowledge.
And yet, the risks remain. Climate change is intensifying weather extremes—longer droughts, stronger storms, unpredictable seasons. In many ways, the Dust Bowl wasn’t a one-time freak event. It was a warning. And the land is still watching.
Small Scale, Big Responsibility
You don’t have to farm a thousand acres to feel the effects of erosion or drought. Even a backyard garden, a hay pasture, or a few acres of cropland can tell the same story on a smaller scale. If you’ve ever seen water pool up and run off instead of soaking in, or watched wind pull away the top layer of your soil, you’ve seen the early signs.
The lessons of the Dust Bowl apply to all of us:
Don’t overwork the soil. Too much tilling breaks down structure and leaves it vulnerable.
Keep it covered. Whether it’s cover crops, mulch, or native grass, bare ground is a risk.
Respect the limits of your land. Plant what makes sense for your environment, not just what’s popular.
Observe and adjust. Healthy land requires ongoing attention, not just seasonal effort.
Even if you only run a few head of cattle or tend to a small plot of vegetables, your soil matters. So does your stewardship. The Dust Bowl showed us what happens when the land is treated as an endless resource. But it also showed us how quickly things can begin to heal with care and commitment.
We can’t control the weather. But we can control how we prepare for it. And perhaps the most important lesson of the Dust Bowl is this: it’s easier to protect the land than it is to fix it after it’s broken.
References
USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service. “History of NRCS.”
Oklahoma Historical Society. “Dust Bowl.”
PBS American Experience. The Dust Bowl by Ken Burns.
University of Nebraska-Lincoln Drought Center.
Library of Congress – Voices from the Dust Bowl Project.
Steinbeck, John. The Grapes of Wrath.
Worster, Donald. Dust Bowl: The Southern Plains in the 1930s.
Attractions
Oklahoma Ghost Towns – Navajoe
Southwestern Oklahoma is rich with history and has a beautiful, rugged landscape. A lesser known mountain range, the Navajo Mountains sits in eastern Jackson County, just to the north east of Altus.
There, at the base of those mountains, used to be the town of Navajoe. It’s easy to surmise that the town took its name from the nearby mountains. As a side note, from my research, it seems that the Navajo Mountains got their name because of a failed Navajo raid. According to folklore, the Navajos attempted to steal Comanche horses, and were annihilated by the Comanches. Legendary Comanche Chief Quanah Parker gave a detailed account of a similar failed Navajo raid in 1848 or 1849, against his village in Elk Creek just north of the mountains.
Approximately 40 years later, in 1886 when the area was still part of Greer County, Texas, two men named W.H. Acers and H.P. Dale opened a general store in the area. The next year, “Buckskin Joe” Works, a Texas land promoter, attended a Fourth of July picnic in the area. The celebration included settlers, cowboys, and several Comanches led by Quanah Parker.
That same year, the town received a post office designated as “Navajoe” to avoid confusion to Navajo, Ariz. Around the same time the Navajoe school opened, and a couple churches were founded.
Eventually the town was home to more than 200 families, and had a booming trade center, complete with grocery stores, hardware stores, saloons, a blacksmith, a dry goods store, a hotel, and a cotton gin. It was a regular frontier time.
Unfortunately, in 1902, the railroad eventually bypassed Navajoe, ensuring its demise, as most businesses moved – buildings and all. Less than two decades later the Navajoe School was consolidated with Friendship and other school districts. Now, all that remains of the town is a small cemetery at the foot of the mountains. A granite monument, which was fashioned in 1976, pays tribute to the old town.
Eventually, in the mid-1960s, Friendship and Warren schools consolidated. The new school, which graduated its first class in 1964 and is still active in Jackson County, is called Navajo.
Read more in the February 2020 issue of Oklahoma Farm & Ranch.
Sources
Wikipedia.com
RedDirtChronicles.com
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