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Fly Control That Works: What’s Worth Your Money This Summer

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By Ann Asher

Every year about this time, it feels like the flies start winning. No matter how clean I keep the pens or how many fly strips I hang, they show up in clouds. Over the past few summers, I’ve tried just about everything—feed-through supplements, predator bugs, DIY traps, and plenty of fly sprays. Some things helped. Some were a waste of money. If you’re battling flies this year, here’s what’s actually worked for me—and what research says can make a real difference on the farm or ranch.

Start with Cleanliness (But Know It’s Not Enough)

The first—and most repeated—advice is to stay ahead of the mess. Manure management is critical, especially around barns, pens, and loafing sheds. Flies lay eggs in fresh manure, and those eggs hatch into larvae in as little as 24 hours during warm weather.
I try to clean high-traffic areas at least every other day, but the truth is, even on the cleanest farms, flies can still be a problem because of moisture, standing water, and nearby neighbors.

Feed-Through Fly Control: A Solid Foundation

One thing that made a noticeable difference for my horses and cattle was starting a feed-through larvicide early in the season. These products add a growth regulator to the feed that passes through the animal and prevents fly larvae from developing in manure.
It’s not an instant fix—you won’t see fewer flies for several weeks—but once it kicks in, you’ll notice fewer new flies being born.

Tip: Feed-through products only work if all animals on the property are eating it consistently. Otherwise, you’re just treating part of the manure, and flies will keep breeding.

Fly Predators: Small, Mighty, and Surprisingly Effective

Last year, I tried fly predators for the first time. These are tiny, non-stinging insects that lay their eggs in fly pupae, stopping the next generation.
I was skeptical (and honestly a little creeped out at first), but I noticed that where I used predators around the barn and dry lots, the fly pressure dropped. Some companies even offer subscription services that send predators timed to your local climate.

Tip: Fly predators don’t kill adult flies—they stop future flies. So you still need to control the adults already buzzing around.

Good Old-Fashioned Fly Traps

In areas like the barn aisle and outdoor runs, nothing beats physical traps.
I like a combination approach:

  • Sticky ribbons and strips for indoor areas
  • Odor-baited traps placed away from livestock areas to draw flies away

Tip: Hang baited traps a good distance from barns or stalls. Otherwise, you’re luring flies right into your animals’ space.

Fly Sprays: Choose Carefully

Fly sprays are the first thing most of us reach for—and they do help—but they have limits.
For horses, sprays containing pyrethrins, pyrethroids (like permethrin), or natural oils tend to offer the best repellency. Even then, most sprays only last a few hours, especially if animals are sweating heavily.

Tip: Apply before morning turnout and again before evening if possible. Reapplication is important, especially after heavy exercise or rain.

Other Tools That Help

  • Fly masks and fly sheets — particularly those with UV protection, to protect sensitive areas like the eyes and ears
  • Fans in barns and run-in sheds — flies struggle to land in strong airflow
  • Automatic sprayer systems — an investment, but highly effective for larger barns

The bad news? There’s no magic bullet for fly control.
The good news? Combining several methods—manure management, feed-through treatments, predators, traps, and targeted sprays—can actually make summer bearable for you and your livestock.

At the end of the day, I figure if I can cut the fly population by half, I’ve already made life better for my animals—and a lot less miserable for myself.

References:

  1. Texas A&M AgriLife Extension – Managing Flies on Livestock
  2. University of Kentucky Entomology – Controlling Flies Around Livestock
  3. North Carolina State Extension – Livestock Pest Management
  4. USDA Agricultural Research Service – Fly Management Resources
  5. Spalding Labs (for info on biological control programs) – Fly Predators Information
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The Garden Guy: Mexican Flame Vine, A Must-Have Plant for Beauty and Pollinators

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By Norman Winter | Horticulturist, Author, Speaker

If you’ve read this column the past few years, you know I put great importance on choosing plants for pollinators around the farm or ranch, home or office. When those plants pack untold beauty, even better. This column aims to put one plant on your must-have list for 2027: the Mexican flame vine.

Names like Mexican Flame and Orange Glow tell you right away that this flower is bold and riveting in color. Add a vine that draws hummingbirds and butterflies and blazes fiery orange, and you have an award-winning plant.

To be honest, I think everyone should grow it for its botanical name alone, Pseudogynoxys chenopodioides. Imagine the look on your neighbors’ faces when they ask, “What’s that gorgeous vine you are growing?” and you tell them.

The Mexican flame vine is a woody tropical vine. Most references say it is cold-hardy in zones 9 and higher, but I have seen many return just fine in zone 8. It is worth every penny even as an annual. As the name suggests, the vine is native to Mexico, and it isn’t picky about soil. I’ve grown it in acid soil fit for azaleas and in soils more reminiscent of the desert. It belongs to the aster, or daisy, family, and you’ll quickly notice the resemblance.

I realize we are at the beginning of fall, but if you start sourcing now or talking to your favorite garden center, you’ll be ready for spring. When you get yours, dig a hole about twice as wide as the root ball and plant at the same depth it was growing in the container. Set the vine next to a structure for support, like a trellis, arbor or pergola. You may have the perfect fence post that could use a Mexican flame vine.

It is a compact vine that reaches only about 10 feet tall, and it tolerates drought once established. You’ll need to do a little training to get it climbing. You’ll also like that pests rarely bother it.

The vine reblooms reliably, and if you need to cut it back a little, it will quickly send out new growth and another round of blooms. That blazing orange screams to be planted with complementary blue flowers. My first choice would be blue salvias like Unplugged So Blue or Rockin’ Playin’ the Blues. If you’re bold and want a native, consider the late-summer-blooming hardy ageratum, known botanically as Conoclinium coelestinum.

Once yours is growing, you’ll notice all sorts of butterflies feasting on the rich nectar. Red admirals, fritillaries, monarchs and yellow sulphurs of all sorts will visit regularly.

Vines give the landscape a vertical dimension, much like hanging a mirror or picture on a wall indoors. The Mexican flame vine will be one of the most dazzling additions to your garden. Start sourcing yours now so you’re ready for spring.

Follow me on Facebook @NormanWinterTheGardenGuy for more photos and garden inspiration.

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Don’t Give Up on the Pond Yet

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By Savannah Magoteaux

Right now, our ponds are looking a little tired.

Water levels may be down after weeks of heat and limited rain. Vegetation can be thick around the edges, the water may be warm and murky, and the bass that seemed willing to bite in spring can feel impossible to find.

But don’t give up on the pond just yet.

Late summer can be a hard time for fish. Warm water holds less dissolved oxygen than cool water, and oxygen levels matter even more in ponds with heavy plant or algae growth. In Oklahoma, oxygen depletion is one of the leading causes of pond fish kills.

Those conditions also change where fish spend their time. During the hottest part of the day, bass may slow down and move to more comfortable spots, including deeper water, shade, aquatic vegetation or structure. That makes early morning and evening good times to fish during the last hot weeks of summer.

Pay attention to cover, too. Submerged vegetation, brush, logs and other structure give bluegill and other small fish places to find food and protection, and bass are often nearby. Oklahoma State University Extension notes that some aquatic vegetation benefits a fishing pond, with about 20 percent plant coverage considered ideal.

Then September begins to bring a change.

Cooler nights gradually lower water temperatures, and fish that have been sluggish through the hottest part of summer often become more active. Bass start feeding more aggressively as conditions improve, and baitfish movement can make shallow areas productive again.

That doesn’t mean every cool morning will fill a stringer. Farm ponds are small ecosystems, and each one responds differently depending on depth, water clarity, vegetation, fish populations and rainfall.

Watch the pond itself during this transition. Fall can bring pond turnover, when the layers of water that formed during warm weather mix. If the deeper water holds little oxygen, that mixing can temporarily lower oxygen throughout the pond. Fish gulping at the surface, especially early in the morning, can signal an oxygen problem.

For most anglers, though, September has less to do with worrying over every change in the water and more to do with recognizing that the pond is entering a new season.

Fish earlier and later in the day while temperatures stay high. Work around vegetation and structure. As cooler weather settles in, try shallower water again and watch for signs of baitfish.

That farm pond that seemed nearly lifeless on an August afternoon may have plenty going on beneath the surface. Sometimes all it takes is a cooler morning, a little patience and one more cast.

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What Happens to Wildlife in a Drought

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By OKFR Staff

Drought is easy to see in a pasture. Grass turns brown, ponds shrink, creeks stop running and crops struggle. It’s harder to see what those same conditions are doing to wildlife.

For deer, turkey, quail and countless smaller species, drought changes much more than how much water is available. It changes where food grows, how much cover the land offers and, in some cases, how successfully animals reproduce.

White-tailed deer are a good example. Deer can go surprisingly long stretches without drinking from a pond or creek if they have succulent plants that supply moisture. During drought, those plants become scarcer and lower in quality. Deer may start eating plants they would normally pass over, and dry years can affect body condition and antler growth. Research in Oklahoma has also shown that fawn production tends to rise and fall with rainfall, so prolonged drought matters when you look at the health of a deer herd over time.

Turkeys face many of the same challenges. Adult birds can get much of the moisture they need from fruits and succulent plants, but drought cuts into those foods. It also affects insects, which young poults depend on. Good brood habitat includes broadleaf plants and plenty of insects, and when dry weather reduces both, young birds have less to eat at a critical stage of life.

Quail may surprise people. Northern bobwhites don’t necessarily need to visit standing water every day. They can get moisture from green vegetation, insects, fruit and even dew. Drought still makes their lives harder by reducing those foods and changing the plant structure they depend on for nesting, feeding and escape cover.

That is why putting out more water isn’t always the whole answer. Oklahoma State University research found that supplemental water can concentrate quail around water sources but hasn’t been shown to increase quail numbers, even in drought years. The bigger issue is habitat. Wildlife need food, cover and space along with access to moisture.

For landowners, some of the best drought help may already be growing on the property.

Avoiding overgrazing leaves more grass and broadleaf plants for wildlife. Leaving brushy areas, native vegetation and field edges undisturbed can provide valuable cover when the surrounding landscape is dry and sparse. Trees and shrubs along creeks and drainages give animals shade, cover and travel corridors.

Water sources still matter, particularly where drought has dried up ponds and streams. If wildlife can reach livestock tanks, ponds or other artificial water sources, make sure animals can get in and out safely. Steep-sided tanks can trap birds and small mammals, so add escape ramps or other exits.

Landowners may also be tempted to start supplemental feeding right away. Feeders and food plots can attract wildlife, but they don’t replace healthy habitat. Food plots may struggle in the same drought that is hurting native vegetation, and concentrating animals around feeders can raise other concerns, including disease transmission and heavy pressure on nearby plants.

Drought also changes wildlife behavior. As resources run short, animals may travel farther or gather around the few places left with food, water and cover. That can make wildlife look more abundant in some spots even while the overall population is under stress.

The effects don’t always end with the first good rain, either. Vegetation takes time to recover, ponds may need repeated rains to refill, and a hard spring or summer’s reproductive losses can’t be reversed overnight.

Oklahoma wildlife are used to changing weather. Dry years are part of the landscape, just like wet years, and most native species have ways of adapting. The longer and more severe a drought becomes, though, the harder those adaptations have to work.

If you want to help wildlife through a dry spell, focus less on replacing everything nature isn’t providing and more on protecting what remains. Conserving cover, avoiding unnecessary disturbance, managing grazing carefully and keeping water sources safe can give wildlife a better chance until the rain returns.

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