Equine
5 Common Winter Horse Care Mistakes
By Laci Jones
With the winter season in full swing, it is especially important to make certain your livestock are well taken care of.
“Winter is the time where we see the most colic in horses, many horse care issues and a lot of respiratory and skin issues,” said Shem Oliver, DVM, board certified surgeon and partner at Performance Equine Associates in Thackerville, Okla.
Ensure your horse is taken care of all season long by avoiding these five common winter horse care mistakes.
Over Blanketing
It may be difficult not to feel guilty about leaving a horse out in the cold. Horse owners may be tempted to rush to their horse’s aid and pile blankets on them, but Oliver said that may not be the best idea.
“I see both sides of the spectrum—over blanketing and under blanketing,” he said. “Usually under blanketing is less of a problem.”
Oliver said he rarely sees an under-blanketed horse because horses with short hair coats year-round are often blanketed appropriately. Oliver said owners that have horses living outside are more likely to over-blanket.
“Those horses adapt by growing a longer hair coat,” Oliver explained. “An owner puts the heavy winter blanket on them when it gets cold, but doesn’t take it off of them at the appropriate time.”
Over blanketing can cause overheating, which may lead to dehydration as well as other health problems. Oliver said over blanketing can also cause a horse to sweat, which may allow fungus to grow and lead to skin conditions like dermatitis. Sweating can also make the horse colder.
“The main thing with blankets is you have to adjust it based on how your horse responds to blanketing,” Oliver said. “If you put the blanket on when it is too warm and they start to sweat, the next time you don’t need to blanket until it is a little cooler.”
Light blankets should be placed on horses with little to no hair at around 65 degrees Fahrenheit, he said. When the temperature drops to 50 degrees Fahrenheit, a heavier blanket is required. Long-haired horses may need a blanket at colder temperatures.
Oliver said more management is required than just putting a blanket on and turning them out to the pasture.
“I see people who leave a blanket on for a week,” he said. “They pull it off and see the horses have a cut or rub sore that the blankets cover up.”
He said rub sores can be caused by an ill-fitted blanket.
“Checking horses appropriately every day, taking the blanket off, making sure it’s clean and the horse is clean underneath is key if you are going to blanket a horse,” he added.
Lack of Shelter
A common mistake made by horse owners is horses not having enough shelter from the elements.
“I don’t think you can have too much shelter,” Oliver said. “The only way you can have too much shelter is if they are not used to being confined to a stall. You can have issues with colic.”
If an owner has horses housed in a barn, the barn should have proper ventilation. Proper ventilation eliminates excess moisture and condensation buildup, which impacts a horse’s respiratory health.
“At minimum, horses need to have a three-sided shelter in their pasture where they can get out of the wind and elements,” Oliver said.
Horses will more readily go into a shelter if there is a large opening, Oliver said. A three-sided shelter also allows horses to take shelter during weather storms and return when it passes. The opening of the three-sided shelter should face away from the elements.
“The south side is usually open because the wind usually comes from the west or north as well as rain or snow,” Oliver said.
How large a shelter is needed depends on the number of horses in the pasture, Oliver said.
“If you have 20 horses in a pasture and only one three-sided shelter, then they are not going to cram themselves in there,” Oliver said. “Horses, while they will get along, are not going to pack themselves in a shelter.”
No Beauty Maintenance
Due to winter weather conditions, a horse owner may not see his horse every day. An owner may not catch a problem that may occur when they are not riding or grooming as often.
“You see things like their hoof care becoming neglected,” Oliver said. “They get foot abscesses, thrush and/or they get long feet.”
Horses travel on uneven, frozen ground that could possibly crack and break hooves. Regular hoof trimming or shoeing is important even in the winter, he explained.
“The main thing is treating horses like you would as if you were riding them every day including grooming their hair coat and giving them a bath even though it is cold,” Oliver said.
A horse owner needs to make certain the horse is dry before going back outside. The drying process takes longer in the winter, he added.
By not grooming or riding, an owner may not notice a horse’s illnesses, injuries or weight loss. Grooming daily allows owners to check for parasites, wounds, or weight loss.
“Maintain a regular schedule of grooming care and hoof care,” Oliver said. “A lot of times when people aren’t riding like they would in the summer, it slips their mind. It is easy to happen to anybody.”
Not Increasing Rations
“A lot of times, people feed horses less in the winter,” Oliver said. “Because they are riding less, the owners think the horses need less feed, but they actually need more feed in the winter.”
While horses do not expend as much energy riding, they will burn more calories to stay warm in the cooler weather. He said underfeeding is why horses “go downhill” in the winter and can cause weight loss.
The horses might not need as much grain, Oliver said. However, the horses need more forage in the form of hay or increased fiber in their diet. Forage provides an excellent source of calories and the large amounts of fiber helps keep horses warmer in the winter, he added.
“A good rule of thumb that I learned in vet school is they need about one percent more forage for every degree below freezing it gets,” Oliver said. “For example, if it’s in the 20s, they need 10 percent more feed. If they are getting 20 pounds of feed, then you will need to add two pounds more to their feed to maintain.”
Vitamins and minerals are always required, especially in the winter, he said. Adequate levels of vitamins are available in good quality horse feed and hay, but a vitamin and mineral supplement can help.
“Keeping electrolytes, salt blocks and minerals out for horses will help keep a balanced diet, but it will also stimulate them to drink more water,” Oliver said.
Dehydration
Oliver said horse dehydration may be the number one mistake amongst horse owners. Water begins to freeze as temperatures begin to drop, and snow and ice cannot be substituted for drinking water.
“Usually if a horse runs into a problem in the winter, it is because their water if frozen over and they get dehydrated or the horse doesn’t drink as much because the water is cold,” Oliver said.
A horse will drink water above 50 degrees Fahrenheit, Oliver explained. Fresh, warm water is necessary for horse hydration, he added.
If a horse is not properly hydrated, they will consume less ration regardless of the quality of feed. Grain and hay fed mostly in the winter months contains less than 15 percent moisture, where pasture grasses contain approximately 80 percent moisture.
Dehydration in horses can lead to weight loss, lack of energy and impaction colic, Oliver said.
Investing in a heating device specifically designed for waterers and troughs can help keep horses hydrated all winter long.
He said horses are more neglected in the winter. An owner should check their horse each day for injuries and to make sure they are drinking enough, he added.
In addition to these five common mistakes, Oliver said owners should make sure to exercise their horses year round.
“The main thing is nothing should change as far as the time of year,” Oliver said. “Not changing their schedule from summer to winter is key.”
Equine
Trailer Safety Checklist
By Janis Blackwell
As the season arrives to gear up for participation in your equine event of choice, one thing remains a constant for all horse owners. That constant is our responsibility to insure the safety of our horses by being diligent to maintain the integrity of the trailers in which we haul them. There are a number of things that can be dangerous both inside and outside of your trailer. Whether you traveled all winter long or whether your trailer sat unused or was used very little through the cold weather months, at least once a year your trailer is due a thorough going over. So here we go with a checklist that will help you insure a happy and safe trip for you and your equine partner.
- A sound floor is absolutely imperative. Whether your floor is aluminum, steel or wood, it should be cleaned regularly after use to preserve it. Urine and manure will erode and weaken all types of floors. Even rubber mats will not prevent erosion of your floor. (Maintenance tip: remove mats and wash aluminum floors often to prevent erosion.)
- Especially check wooden floors for rotten boards. Immediately replace questionable flooring before hauling. (Maintenance tip: For wood, remove mats and wash out manure and debris. Coat wooden floor in a cheap motor oil. Allow to sit in hot summer weather until the oil soaks in. Be careful—floor will be slippery until oil cures into the wood. This treatment yearly will preserve a wooden floor for much longer than normal as it repels urine and protects the wood).
- Keep the interior and exterior washed to enable you to check for rusted out places, leaks, etc.
- Have a professional check your brakes at least once yearly to be sure they are operating properly.
- Be sure tires are inflated to the proper air pressure, and check the inside of each tire for hidden unusual wear that could cause a blowout. Replace worn tires before leaving home.
- Wheel bearings must be checked and packed at least once a year. This should be done even if the trailer has been rarely used since the last time the wheel bearings were packed. In fact, trailer maintenance professionals say that sitting stationary and unused is even worse for the bearings. Improper care and maintenance of wheel bearings can cause a wheel to seize up and actually twist off while in use. Use a horse trailer professional for this maintenance task.
- Axles should be checked for bowing. A bent or bowed axle can cause excessive tire wear and damage wheel bearings.
- There should be no more than two inches in height difference from the front of the trailer to the back. More difference than that causes the bulk of weight of the trailer and its contents to ride mostly on the rear axle causing it to bow and wear on both tires and wheel bearings.
- Another critical part of the trailer to keep an eye on are the butt chain or bar and the back door. The butt chain or bar should be firmly attached to the wall and its keeper and should always be latched. The door should have a strong secure latch with a pin to insure it stays latched while in motion.
- Finally, but certainly not of least importance is a thorough check of the trailer hitch including ball and coupling. Keep the ball well greased. Periodically, check to see that the ball is still securely tightened and the latch on the coupling is working properly.
These few critical safety check points can save you money, stress and the wellbeing of your horse. Until next time, happy trails and safe traveling.
This article was originally published in the April 2016 issue of Oklahoma Farm & Ranch.
Equine
Gastric Ulcers
By Dr. Devan England DVM
Does your horse have gastric ulcers? Gastric or stomach ulcers are frequently blamed for a variety of things including poor performance, acting ‘cinchy’, weight loss, not eating, poor coat condition, diarrhea and colic. However, gastric ulcers are not always the culprit and the only way to know for sure if your horse has gastric ulcers is to look at the stomach on camera, using an endoscope. Poor appetite and poor body condition are the mostly widely observed clinical signs with gastric ulcers, however, these are non-specific. If you think your horse might have gastric ulcers, the best place to start is to talk to your veterinarian and consider scheduling a gastroscopy. Gastroscopy requires the horse be held off feed for at least 16-18 hours and held off water for at least 6-8 hours. Fasting off feed and water is necessary to allow the veterinarian to see the whole stomach. If restricting feed or water is difficult in your management situation, many veterinarians will allow you to hospitalize your horse the night before gastroscopy for proper fasting.
Gastric ulcers are split into two types, classified by the location of the ulcer in the stomach. Squamous ulcers are ulcers that occur in the squamous or skin like portion of the stomach. This is the top part of the horse’s stomach, is closest to the esophagus, and has squamous tissue to protect this portion of the stomach from stomach acids. The other ulcer type are glandular ulcers. Glandular ulcers occur in the bottom portion of the stomach, which is closest to the small intestine. This portion of the stomach has glandular mucosa with cells responsible for producing stomach acids for digestion as well as cells that produce mucus and buffers to protect the lining from stomach acid. Gastroscopy is important not only for diagnosing whether ulcers are present but also determining the severity and the type of ulcer, because these two ulcer types require different treatments.
Squamous gastric ulcers are common in racehorses both in and out of training, with higher prevalence in racehorses under training. Prevalence in Thoroughbred racehorses in training has been reported to be up to 100% (Sykes 2015). Squamous ulcers are also prevalent in Western pleasure horses, Thoroughbred stallions on breeding farms, and Italian donkeys (Sykes 2015). Glandular gastric ulcer prevalence has not been as well described as squamous ulcers. Glandular ulcers are reported to be most common in Thoroughbred and Standardbred racehorses, Canadian showjumpers and polo ponies, and American Quarter Horses (Sykes 2015).
Risk factors for ulcers vary by ulcer type. Anti-inflammatories (Bute, Banamine) can increase the risk of glandular ulcers in some horses by affecting normal defense mechanisms but are not a high risk in most horses. Horses that display stereotypic behaviors, such as cribbing, have an increased risk of squamous ulcers. Grain fed before hay in non-exercising horses, feeding larger amounts of grain, and increased time between meals increases the risk of squamous ulcers. Increased time with high intensity exercise and housing in single pens is associated with increased risk of glandular ulcers. A straw only diet, lack of water access and lack of direct contact with other horses increases the general risk of gastric ulcers.
If your horse is diagnosed with ulcers, the mainstay of treatment is a buffered formulation of omeprazole (Gastrogard, Ulcergard). Over the counter Omeprazole and compounded Omeprazole are not effective because without buffering, the acidic stomach quickly breaks down the drug before absorption. Most horses with squamous ulcers will have healing of these ulcers after a 4-week course of Gastrogard or Ulcergard at treatment dose (whole tube for the average horse). Some horses may be healed by 3 weeks of treatment, but all horses should undergo a recheck gastroscopy before stopping treatment. Horses diagnosed with glandular ulcers need combination therapy with Gastrogard/Ulcergard and Sucralfate for 4 weeks. About 2/3 of horses with glandular ulcers will heal in this time, but some horses may require longer treatment times so a recheck is always recommended before discontinuing treatment.
Horses at higher risk of gastric ulcers may benefit from preventative (low) doses of Ulcergard (1/4 tube in average sized horse) given for a few days before and during high stress situations like long distance travel and competitions. Sea buckthorn berry supplement may be protective against formation of glandular ulcers. Dietary management to decrease the risk of ulcers includes providing more frequent small hay meals if pasture access is not available, limiting high sugar grains as much as possible and adding vegetable oil to the feed.
Sykes BW, Hewetson M, Hepburn RJ, Luthersson N, Tamzali Y. European college of equine internal medicine consensus statement – equine gastric ulcer syndrome in adult horses. J Vet Internal Med 2015; 29:1288-1299.
Equine
Breeding the Older Mare
By the time the June issue reaches readers, the regular breeding season is winding down for many horse owners. Some mares are already confirmed in foal, some breeding decisions have been pushed aside for another year and some owners are already thinking ahead to next season. For those with an older mare they hope to breed, that early planning can make a real difference.
Older mares can still produce foals, but they may need more help than younger mares. Age affects the reproductive system, and those changes can make it harder for a mare to become pregnant, stay pregnant or carry a healthy foal to term. That does not mean every older mare is a poor candidate for breeding. It does mean owners should go into the process with realistic expectations and a good veterinarian involved from the beginning.
A mare’s reproductive age does not always match her number of birthdays. Some mares in their mid-to-late teens settle easily and carry foals without much trouble. Others begin having problems earlier. Past reproductive history matters. A mare that has had regular foals may be different from an older maiden mare that spent most of her life showing, racing, working or sitting open. Health, body condition, uterine health and conformation all play a role.
One of the main challenges with older mares is egg quality. As mares age, their eggs age, too. Older eggs are more likely to have abnormalities that prevent fertilization, stop early embryo development or lead to early pregnancy loss. Even when breeding is timed well and the stallion has good fertility, the mare may not settle because the egg itself is no longer as viable as it once was.
The uterus also changes with age. The lining of the uterus, called the endometrium, can become less healthy and less able to support pregnancy. Over time, some mares develop fibrosis or scarring within the uterus. This can interfere with the placenta’s ability to develop and support a growing fetus. A mare may get pregnant early, but then lose the pregnancy because the uterus cannot maintain it.
Older maiden mares can face an additional problem. When a mare cycles, it is normal for some fluid to be present in the uterus. A healthy reproductive tract clears that fluid through uterine contractions and cervical relaxation. In some older mares, especially those that have never had a foal, the cervix may not relax well enough. Fluid can build up and remain in the uterus after breeding. That fluid can damage sperm, interfere with an embryo and increase the risk of infection or inflammation.
Post-breeding inflammation is another concern. All mares experience some uterine inflammation after breeding, but most clear it within a reasonable amount of time. Older mares may not clear it well. This can leave the uterus in a poor environment for pregnancy. A veterinarian may recommend uterine lavage, medication or other treatment after breeding to help the mare clear fluid and inflammation.
External conformation can also affect fertility. As some mares age, especially taller, thinner mares or mares that have had multiple foals, the reproductive tract may tilt in a way that allows manure or air to contaminate the vulva and vagina. Poor vulvar conformation can increase the risk of uterine infection. In some cases, a veterinarian may recommend a Caslick’s procedure to help protect the reproductive tract.
Because so many factors can be involved, an older mare should have a breeding soundness exam before the next season begins. This may include a physical exam, reproductive ultrasound, uterine culture, cytology and possibly a uterine biopsy. These tools help determine whether the mare has infection, inflammation, fluid retention, poor uterine health or other issues that need to be addressed before breeding.
Timing is also important. With an older mare, it is usually better to start early in the season rather than waiting until late. More cycles give the veterinarian more chances to manage the mare properly. Early planning also allows time to treat infection, improve body condition, schedule semen shipments, evaluate the stallion’s fertility and consider whether cooled semen, frozen semen, live cover or another option makes the most sense.
Owners should also look closely at the mare’s overall health. A mare that is too thin, too heavy, metabolically unstable, lame or dealing with chronic illness may struggle to conceive or carry a foal. Good nutrition, dental care, hoof care and vaccination planning all matter. Breeding may be a reproductive decision, but pregnancy affects the whole horse.
For some mares, advanced reproductive options may be worth discussing. Embryo transfer allows a valuable mare to produce a foal without carrying it herself. This may be helpful for older mares that can produce an embryo but should not carry a pregnancy, or for mares that are still competing. Other assisted reproductive techniques may also be available through specialized equine reproduction centers.
The hard truth is that breeding an older mare can take more time, money and patience. Not every mare will get in foal, even with good care. Some mares should not be bred if the risks are too high. Still, many older mares can produce healthy foals when problems are identified early and managed correctly.
For owners hoping to raise one more foal from a favorite mare, the best plan is to start the conversation before breeding season arrives. Talk with a veterinarian, evaluate the mare honestly and make decisions based on her health, history and reproductive exam. Hope is part of breeding horses, but planning gives that hope a much better chance.
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