Many ranchers across North Texas have discovered an easy, natural way to keep water troughs cleaner: add a few fish. It might sound like something from a backyard pond hobby, but keeping hardy fish such as goldfish or small koi in livestock troughs can help reduce algae, control insects, and even provide a little entertainment during daily chores.

The main benefit of adding fish is algae control. When sunlight hits the water and nutrients from dust, hay, or manure accumulate, algae blooms can appear quickly, especially in warm weather. Fish feed on the small organisms that make up the base of that algae growth. Goldfish, minnows, and koi are particularly effective at grazing on microscopic material and keeping buildup manageable.

Another advantage is mosquito control. In summer, stagnant water attracts mosquitoes, which lay eggs along the edges of the trough. A few small fish will eat the larvae before they hatch, breaking the cycle before it starts.

There’s also an element of simple enjoyment. Watching fish dart around beneath the water adds a bit of life to the barnyard, and they’re surprisingly hardy if cared for properly. Many livestock owners say once they’ve added fish, they never go back to fishless troughs.

Despite the practical benefits, there are some important considerations before stocking your trough. The success of fish in small water containers depends on size, sunlight, and maintenance.

Smaller troughs heat and cool quickly, so temperature swings can stress fish. Metal troughs exposed to full sun get hotter than shaded plastic or concrete ones. When possible, locate the trough where it gets partial shade and is deep enough for fish to retreat from temperature extremes.

Choosing and Caring for Fish

Goldfish are the most common choice because they tolerate temperature changes, low oxygen levels, and variable water conditions better than most species. They’re inexpensive, easy to find, and don’t require a filtration system if the water is changed regularly.

A few general guidelines make the difference between a thriving setup and a short-lived one:

Begin with only two or three fish per 100 gallons of water. Overcrowding leads to oxygen depletion, which is the main reason fish die in troughs.

Feed stores and local pet shops often sell small feeder goldfish or minnows at low cost. Avoid releasing fish from ornamental ponds or unknown sources, since they may introduce disease or parasites.

Fish should adjust slowly to temperature differences between the water they came in and the trough. Float the transport bag in the trough for 15–20 minutes, then add small amounts of trough water before releasing them.

Most fish will find enough to eat naturally — algae, insects, and organic debris. Supplementing food isn’t necessary and can actually foul the water.

While fish help limit algae, they don’t eliminate it. Every few weeks, scrub the sides of the trough lightly and refill it completely to maintain water quality. When cleaning, move the fish temporarily to a bucket with some of their old water to minimize stress.

If you use bleach, copper sulfate, or any algaecide in your tanks, the fish will not survive. Once fish are introduced, rely on natural cleaning and partial water changes instead of additives.

Most animals quickly get used to fish in their tanks and don’t bother them. If a horse or cow tends to stir the water excessively or dump feed in the trough, install a section of wire mesh or a large rock area for the fish to hide under.

Winter Care and Cold-Weather Survival

A common question is what to do when temperatures drop. In most of North Texas, you can leave the fish in the trough all winter. They tolerate cold far better than people expect.

When the water temperature falls, fish become sluggish and sink to the bottom where the water remains slightly warmer. Even when ice forms on top, they usually survive without issue as long as the trough isn’t completely frozen solid.

If your tanks regularly freeze over, here are a few tips:

Keep a small opening in the ice to allow oxygen exchange. You can gently pour a small pot of warm (not boiling) water on one spot or set in a floating object so the ice forms around it and leaves a gap.

Avoid breaking thick ice with force. The shock and vibration can stress or kill fish.

Don’t move the fish indoors unless the tank will freeze solid. Sudden temperature changes are more harmful than cold water itself.

Fish can overwinter outside just fine if there’s some depth — at least 18 to 24 inches — and no complete freeze-through. In fact, many people report their fish living for several years in the same trough, even through occasional hard freezes.

If you use a stock tank heater for livestock, that’s perfectly fine for the fish too, as long as it doesn’t raise the water temperature dramatically. They’ll appreciate the small patch of open water and the stable oxygen exchange.

During cold months, fish won’t need food. Their metabolism slows, and uneaten feed can decay and foul the water. Once temperatures climb again in spring, they’ll become more active.

Even with the best care, fish sometimes die suddenly due to poor water quality or low oxygen. Murky water, slimy buildup, or a sulfur-like smell are warning signs. Dumping and refilling the tank usually fixes the problem. If losses are frequent, check for contamination from feed, manure, or chemicals.

It’s also worth knowing that goldfish reproduce quickly. If your trough has a gravel bottom or lots of algae, you might end up with more fish than you started with by midsummer. A few extra can be rehomed in a garden pond or given away, but be careful not to release them into creeks or natural ponds — that can harm native species.

Adding fish to water troughs isn’t new, but more landowners are rediscovering its usefulness. It’s a low-maintenance, inexpensive, and surprisingly effective way to help keep tanks clearer, reduce insects, and add a little charm to daily chores.

For the most part, the system takes care of itself. A handful of goldfish or minnows, a little common sense, and routine cleaning are all it takes. Come winter, just leave them be — odds are they’ll be waiting under the ice when spring rolls around, ready to start another season of quiet work in your stock tank.

References

Texas A&M AgriLife Extension – Managing Water Quality for Livestock and Wildlife.

Oklahoma State University Extension – Farm Pond Ecology and Fish Care Basics.

Texas Parks & Wildlife Department – Small Pond and Trough Fish Management Guidelines.

North Central Texas Council of Governments – Water Conservation for Rural Landowners.

Oklahoma Department of Agriculture, Food & Forestry – Livestock Water Tank Maintenance Resources.

By Barry Whitworth, DVM

Chances are that livestock producers at some time or another will be affected by a disaster such as a flood, tornado, drought or wildfire. Whatever the disaster, the challenge of any producer is to take care of their animals. Unlike small animals, farm animals tend to be large and require special needs in an emergency. For this reason, it is important to take the time to prepare a “Disaster Preparedness Plan.”

The plan will hopefully create a step-by-step set of guidelines to follow during a chaotic situation that will keep both animals and humans safe. In any disaster situation, the most important thing for a producer is to ensure above all else that his/her family and life come first. A producer should never attempt to risk his/her life or a member of their family’s life to save the life of an animal.

The start of a good disaster preparedness plan begins with evaluating what are the most likely disasters that a ranch or farm might face. For example, a ranch in the far eastern part of the state may not spend as much time with drought preparation as a ranch in the western part of the state. All producers should take the time to research history and look at weather patterns to understand the most likely disasters they could face.

Next, the producer should evaluate their premises to determine the potential risk to the animals. For example, the producer may want to remove the animals from any area that falls in a flood plain during certain times of the year or have an evacuation plan ready in case of an emergency. One should also evaluate the structures on the property. Are the barns or sheds able to withstand strong winds or not? The answer to that question will determine if the animals will be kept in a barn or turned out in a pasture during a storm.

Stacks of lumber and/or tin should be tied down. This will prevent the material from being blown around and possibly injuring an animal. Areas around a barn should be kept mowed and free of dead debris. This will help reduce risk where there is potential for a wildfire.

These questions and more need to be addressed in preparing the plan.

A disaster preparedness plan should also include animal identification. All animals need some form of identification. Brands, microchips and tattoos make excellent identifications since they are more permanent than other forms. Pictures will help identify animals. The producer should have records of ownership in case animals are lost or die in the disaster. This will be important if the producer is receiving insurance or indemnity payments.

It is important to remember that during a disaster power and utilities may be lost. A livestock owner who relies on electricity for his/her animals will need to have a backup source of power. A seven to 10-day supply of feed and water should be kept on hand. Producers may want to prepare an emergency kit. Items that might be included in the kit are halters, ropes, feed buckets, medications, first aid supplies, cleaning supplies, flashlights, batteries, cell phone, radio, feed, hay, water and generator. These are just a few things that a producer might need in an emergency.

An evacuation may need to be part of a producer’s disaster preparedness plan. Moving large herds of animals is probably not feasible. However, producers may wish to evacuate a small number of animals that have exceptional genetics. If evacuation is an option, producers will need to prearrange for an evacuation site. They will need to establish a route.

The truck should be full of gas and the trailer hitched during unfavorable conditions. Producers need to leave early. A producer should keep in mind that traffic may be increased during a disaster. The last thing a livestock owner needs is to be caught in a disaster stuck on a highway.

The producers will need to take feed and hay or prearrange for delivery to the evacuation site. If the animals are to remain on the farm, the producer will need to establish an area that he/she feels is safest depending on what the disaster is. For example, a pasture with no trees would be safer than a pasture with a few trees that animals would congregate under during a severe storm.

Once the crisis is over, the owner should be prepared to deal with injuries and dead animals. Producers need to have a carcass disposal plan ready in advance. Producers need to check with the local and state officials about the laws for disposing of animals. Producers need to realize that there is a chance that some animals will need to be euthanized. Owners need to be prepared to euthanize or contact a veterinarian to this job.

Planning how to deal with a disaster is like writing a will. Most of us think that we have plenty of time to get it done later. Unfortunately, later usually comes earlier than we like, and we get caught in an emergency with no plan. If a producer would like more information about planning for a disaster, they should go to www.prep4agthreats or contact their local county educator.

This article originally appeared in the June 2018 issue of Oklahoma Farm & Ranch. 

Barry Whitworth, DVM, MPH | Senior Extension Specialist | Department of Animal & Food Sciences | Ferguson College of Agriculture | Oklahoma State University

Foot issues are a common finding in sheep and goat operations. According to a 2011 Sheep Study conducted by the United States Department of Agriculture, footrot was found in 37.3% sheep operations. In the 2009 Goat Study, “symptoms of sores on hoof area with foul odor” were found in 6.6% of all the operations. Some studies indicate the issue increases with herd size.  

Several factors contribute to the disease, but the main bacterium involved is Dichelobacter nodosus. The bacterium is contagious and does not survive long outside the host. However, the bacterium will live for years in the feet of sheep and goats. The bacterium has many strains. In general, they can be classified as benign or virulent. Virulent strains are able to destroy the horn. Benign strains do little or no damage to the horn.

Two other bacteria may play a role in footrot. Fusobacterium necrophorum, which causes foot scald, is a common inhabitant of the digestive tract of ruminants. It does not appear to be contagious. This bacterium usually contributes to the development of footrot. Some experts believe that foot scald is a precursor to footrot. One other bacterium that may contribute to the development of footrot or footscald is Trueperella pyogenes. This bacterium may increase the susceptibility of the hoof to the other two bacteria. This bacterium is found in the environment and is associated with foot abscesses. 

The first sign of foot scald is usually lameness. In foot scald, the space between the claws may appear red, hairless, swollen, and moist. No odor is present, and the condition tends to improve with dry weather.  

In comparison, footrot will have the same clinical signs as foot scald but the signs will be more severe. The space between the claws will be necrotic and the hoof will be affected. The foot will have a foul odor. In severe infection, the hoof wall will separate from the pedal bone. The condition is highly contagious and will spread rapidly through the flock.

Both footrot and foot scald are usually diagnosed on clinical signs. The presence of a foul odor is important to separate footrot from foot scald. A definitive diagnosis is based on culturing the bacteria from the foot.

Several management tools need to be used when dealing with footrot. Studies show a significant improvement in overall herd lameness when lame animals were separated from the flock. Sheep infected with Dichelobacter nodosus that causes footrot continue to shed the organism for a period of time after treatment. If left in the herd, these animals contaminate pastures and facilities which contribute to the spread of bacteria. Lame animals need to be isolated until they are healed.

Research has demonstrated that there is a benefit to early identification and prompt treatment of lame sheep. Sheep need to be observed daily for health issues. Studies show that treatment should be initiated within 3 days of lameness. Any animal found to be lame needs to be treated promptly with a long-acting antibiotic and topical antibiotic. Their feet should not be trimmed at this time. Trimming infected feet delays healing.

Another management tool is the use of foot baths. Using a foot bath during a footrot outbreak has been found to reduce lameness. Copper sulfate, formalin, and zinc sulfate may be used in foot baths, but a 10% zinc sulfate solution is preferred. 

Lastly, significant improvement in a flock can be made by culling lame sheep. Sheep requiring 2 or more treatments should be culled. Removing chronically infected sheep from the flock reduces a significant source of the bacteria which should lower the spread of the disease. Culling will improve the economics of the flock by decreasing labor time and money associated with treating footrot. It is also recommended not to keep lambs from culled ewes with footrot for replacement ewes.

Preventing footrot begins with proper nutrition. Hoof health is influenced by minerals and vitamins. Special emphasis should be placed on ensuring adequate amounts of selenium, biotin, zinc, Vitamin A, and Vitamin E. Hooves should not be allowed to over grow. Routine trimming and examination will ensure a healthy foot. Facility and pasture management play an important role in controlling lameness as well. It was found in a study conducted in the United Kingdom that allowing pastures to rest 2 or more weeks had a high impact in reducing lameness in sheep. Facilities need to be kept clean and dry. Lambing pens need to be cleaned and disinfected between uses. Fences need to be maintained. This prevents neighboring animals from entering the farm which could contaminate the pasture with unwanted bacteria.

Footrot can be a frustrating disease. However, following the above practices should improve foot health. For more information about footrot in sheep and goat enterprises, producers should consult with their veterinarian or the Oklahoma State University County Cooperative Extension Service Agriculture Educator.

References

Reilly, L. A., Baird, A. N., & Pugh D., G. (2002). Diseases of the foot. In D.G. Pugh(Ed.), Sheep & Goat Medicine (pp. 225-227). W.B. Saunders Company

Witt J, Green L. Development and assessment of management practices in a flock-specific lameness control plan: A stepped-wedge trial on 44 English sheep flocks. Prev Vet Med. 2018;157:125-133.