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Grilled: Another Way to Cook Fish

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Most people in the South, where I grew up, seem to prefer fried fish. I like fried fish, but I like some fish even better when grilled, baked, broiled or sautéed.

Grilling fish with the approach described in this article seems to work best when either fillets or fish flesh attached to the spine are 0.5 to 1.5 inches thick. For grilling, fillets of many fish species can have the skin and scales attached (sometimes described as “on the half shell”) or have the skin removed. Fresh fish is better than frozen fish, but both are good when cooked properly.

Grilling works well with many fish species. I have successfully grilled freshwater species, such as largemouth bass, and channel and blue catfish. Channel and blue catfish smaller than 1.5 pounds grill best when attached to the spine without the skin. Larger channel and blue catfish grill best as fillets without the skin, but the fillets tend to draw up and curl. Fillets of crappies, bluegill, redear sunfish and green sunfish do not grill well because they are relatively delicate and crumble during grilling; if grilled, their flesh should be attached to the spine.

I have successfully grilled at least 18 saltwater fish species. Examples include red snapper, red drum, black drum, spotted seatrout and blacktip shark. Red drum should be smaller than 33 inches, and black drum should be smaller than 28 inches, because fillets from larger fish can be course and chewy. Skin of spotted seatrout is too thin for the half-shell approach.

I generally serve grilled fish with baked sweet or white potato; a broiled green vegetable such as asparagus or green beans; and often with stuffed crab, stuffed shrimp or stuffed jalapeno.

INGREDIENTS

  • 6 to 8 ounces of fish fillet per person (could weigh more when skin or spine is attached)
  • Lemon or lime concentrate juice
  • Butter or margarine
  • Worcestershire sauce (Mike prefers French’s)
  • Chef Paul Prudhommes’ Blackened Redfish Magic seasoning
  • Crushed rosemary (optional)

COOKING SUPPLIES

  • Heavy-duty aluminum foil (use one time and then discard)
  • Serving fork
  • No-stick grill spray (e.g., Pam, Crisco, etc.)
  • 1-quart stainless steel saucepan
  • Basting brush
  • 2 spatulas
  • Grill
  • Serving platter

DIRECTIONS

Step 1: Fold edges of a piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil to fit all the fish and fit the available grill space (edges should be folded to the bottom). The doubled edges strengthen the foil. Punch holes 1 to 2 inches apart throughout foil using the serving fork. Spray top side of foil with no-stick grill spray.

Step 2: Prepare basting sauce for two servings of fish by melting approximately 4 tablespoons of butter or margarine in the saucepan and mixing in about 3 tablespoons of lemon or lime concentrate juice and no more than 2 tablespoons of Worcestershire sauce. I often vary the relative amounts of each ingredient to give the sauce a different flavor.

Step 3. Heat the grill

For fish without skin

Step 4: Place the aluminum foil on the grill and then place the fillets without skin onto the foil with the side filleted off the spine down first. This side absorbs the sauce better when the fillet is partially cooked and turned over. Place either side of a fish onto the foil when it has the spine in it.

Step 5. Use the basting brush and sauce to baste the top side of the fillets immediately before turning them when the fish is approximately half-cooked (fish fillets start to turn white near the edges). Only turn the fish once while cooking. I use two spatulas to turn and move cooked fillets, because larger fish fillets tend to fall apart when using only one spatula. Baste the second side (the one facing up) after turning. Sprinkle blackened redfish seasoning and optional crushed rosemary on top of the second side after last basting before fish is completely cooked.

Step 6: Place cooked fish on the platter, and serve and eat immediately. Fish is ready to eat when it flakes and turns white in the middle of the thickest portion. Do not overcook. Fish cooks quickly, requiring only a few minutes.

For boneless fish with skin and scales (“on the half shell”)

Alternative Steps 4 and 5: When cooking fish on the half shell, place skin side down on the foil. Cook without turning, and baste only the top side. Cooking fish on the half shell requires more time than cooking skinless fillets of the same thickness. Basting, seasoning and determining readiness are the same as for fillets or fish with spine in it. Use a spatula to separate the cooked fillet from the skin when serving.

Bon appetit!

Read more in the August issue of Oklahoma Farm & Ranch.

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Venomous Snakes of Oklahoma: What You’re Most Likely to Encounter

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Oklahoma is home to a wide range of wildlife, and snakes are a regular part of life for anyone who spends time outdoors. From ranchers and farmers to hunters, hikers, and rural landowners, most Oklahomans will eventually cross paths with a snake. While the majority of species found in the state are harmless, there are a handful that deserve extra respect.

Many people believe Oklahoma has only three venomous snake species. In reality, the state has seven venomous species, but they fall into three main groups that are helpful to understand: rattlesnakes, copperheads, and cottonmouths. All of Oklahoma’s venomous snakes belong to the pit viper family, meaning they share similar physical traits and hunting behaviors.

Knowing what these snakes look like, where they live, and how they behave goes a long way toward reducing the risk of an unpleasant encounter.

Rattlesnakes

Rattlesnakes are the most recognizable venomous snakes in Oklahoma, largely thanks to the rattle at the end of their tails. That rattle is designed as a warning system, alerting large animals — including people — that they are too close for comfort.

Oklahoma has several species of rattlesnakes, ranging from large, heavy-bodied snakes found in western parts of the state to smaller species that prefer grasslands and rocky areas. They are commonly encountered in open rangeland, rocky outcrops, brushy pastures, and along fence lines. Rattlesnakes are also known to seek shelter under equipment, boards, or debris, especially during extreme heat or cooler months.

Despite their reputation, rattlesnakes are not aggressive. They typically remain still and rely on camouflage until a threat gets too close. While the rattle is often used as a warning, it’s important to understand that a rattlesnake may not always rattle before striking. Some rattles are damaged or broken, and a snake that feels suddenly threatened may strike defensively without warning.

Rattlesnake venom is hemotoxic, meaning it damages tissue and affects blood clotting. Any bite should be treated as a medical emergency, even if symptoms initially seem mild.

Copperheads

Copperheads are among the most frequently encountered venomous snakes in Oklahoma, particularly in the eastern half of the state. They are masters of camouflage, blending easily into leaf litter, brush piles, wooded creek bottoms, and rocky terrain.

Most copperheads are relatively modest in size, typically measuring between one and three feet long. Their most recognizable feature is the pattern of darker bands along their bodies, often described as hourglass-shaped. This pattern helps them disappear into the forest floor, which is why copperheads are often stepped on accidentally.

Copperheads rely heavily on remaining still rather than fleeing, which increases the chance of a close encounter. Many bites occur when someone unknowingly steps near or directly on a snake that never attempted to move away.

Although copperhead venom is generally considered less potent than that of some rattlesnakes, bites are still serious and require immediate medical attention. Pain, swelling, and tissue damage are common, and prompt treatment can prevent complications.

Cottonmouths

Cottonmouths, also known as water moccasins, are Oklahoma’s primary semi-aquatic venomous snake. They are most often found near water sources such as slow-moving streams, ponds, swamps, and marshy areas, particularly in southeastern Oklahoma.

Cottonmouths are thick-bodied snakes that can grow several feet long. Their coloration is often dark, sometimes making them difficult to distinguish from nonvenomous water snakes. One defining behavior gives them their name: when threatened, a cottonmouth may open its mouth wide, displaying a bright white interior as a warning.

While cottonmouths are commonly associated with water, they do travel over land and may be encountered on trails, levees, or near livestock ponds. Like other pit vipers, they prefer to avoid confrontation and rely on defensive displays rather than aggression.

Cottonmouth venom is hemotoxic and can cause significant pain, swelling, and tissue damage. As with any venomous snakebite, immediate medical care is critical.

All of Oklahoma’s venomous snakes share several general characteristics. They have broad, triangular-shaped heads, heat-sensing pits between the eyes and nostrils, and vertical pupils. While these traits can help with identification, it’s safest to avoid attempting close inspection altogether.

Most snake bites happen when people try to kill, handle, or move snakes. Others occur when visibility is poor and a snake is accidentally surprised. Simple precautions can significantly reduce risk: watching where you step or reach, wearing boots in tall grass or rocky areas, and giving snakes plenty of space when they are spotted.

Venomous snakes play an important role in Oklahoma’s ecosystems by controlling rodent populations and maintaining balance among prey species. While it’s natural to feel uneasy around them, understanding their behavior helps replace fear with awareness.

Venomous snakes are a fact of life in rural Oklahoma, but encounters rarely end in injury when people remain alert and respectful. Recognizing that Oklahoma’s venomous snakes fall into three main groups — rattlesnakes, copperheads, and cottonmouths — makes identification simpler and helps people make safer decisions outdoors.

With a little knowledge and caution, Oklahomans can continue to work the land, enjoy the outdoors, and coexist with these often-misunderstood animals that have been part of the landscape long before fences, barns, or back roads ever existed.

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You Will Be Totally Tempted

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With These New Cupheas

By Norman Winter | Horticulturist, Author and Speaker

There will be a lot of temptation for gardeners this year, so many new plants are showing up at the garden center. Being the astute gardener you are, you probably can guess I am yanking your chain a little as I introduce you to the Totally Tempted cuphea series.

If you are a hummingbird lover you already know some cupheas. The Totally Tempted cupheas come in 4 color or varieties, Richly Red, Watermelon Wine, Frosted Violets and Vivid Violet. They have the potential of reaching 16-inches tall with an 18-inch spread.eas

They are known botanically as Cuphea procumbens with a common name creeping waxweed. Don’t let that name cause any concern. They are native to Southern Mexico and perennial in zones 9 and warmer. They are rock solid, tough and worth every penny as annuals in containers, whether you choose to design a mix or go solo. Your beds will also sizzle with a new artistic touch.

These caught the eye of my good friend, Dr. Allen Owings while at the Young’s Plant Farm Annual Garden Tour in Auburn AL. Allen, formerly a Horticulture Professor at LSU AgCenter is now Horticulturist for Clegg’s Nursery and Bracy’s Nursery. So when he posted the photos on Facebook they caught my attention.

Kim Smith Owner of Smiths Country Gardens in Taylorsville Indiana also went to Facebook. With her trials. She said the violet purple, blush rimmed blooms make it easy to fall in love with Totally Tempted Frosted Violets. Her antique looking urn was filled to overflowing with just Frosted Violets.

She says they are self-cleaning with a continuous blooming habit. She says her zone 5 climate dictates growing as an annual. She recommends plenty of sunlight to keep it from stretching. She went on to say trimming off a little in late July or August can help promote new growth if needed. Kim, feeds weekly with water soluble fertilizer.

Neighbor Dave and his bride Cynthia created a stunning combination in a rectangular concrete planter. They used both Totally Tempted Richly Red and Watermelon Wine with Augusta Lavender heliotrope and Virtuoso Dayglo Yellow dahlia. It is easy for The Garden Guy to peek over the fence and admire.

Son James and the Eden Estate Management team used Totally Tempted Vivid Violet in a window box with Virtuoso Vibrant Violet dahlias. And Supertunia Mini Vista Yellow petunias for a dash of contrasting color.

The Garden Guy went with the Totally Tempted red selections. In the front flower bed at the entrance I used Sunshine Blue II caryopteris with the chartreuse colored foliage. In the backyard I used both Richly Red and Watermelon Wine with the new ColorBlaze Mini Me Chartreuse coleus. In all plantings the flash of red and chartreuse dazzled with color.

Both son James and I found that cutting back kept the plants with a bushier habit. Like Kim Smith recommended, sunlight and frequent fertilization is mandatory. You will find that the Totally Tempted cupheas like others will bring in an assortment of bees, butterflies and hummingbirds. If you will check out Proven Winners Totally Tempted cupheas online you will find recipes for each color, further leading to ……you guessed it, the temptation for the 2025 new plants coming your way. Follow me on Facebook @NormanWinterTheGardenGuy for more photos and garden inspiration.

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Cup Plant

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By Norman Winter | The Garden Guy

When it comes to the backyard wildlife habitat, the cup plant has it all. To me, it is the flag bearer perennial for bees, butterflies, and birds. It is a stalwart native in 34 states from Louisiana north to Canada crossing every border east. Alas however its size is quite imposing. It is big, bold and wonderful, and this is the time of the year it shines the most.

If you are getting interested but are not familiar with the cup plant, it is known botanically as Silphium perfoliatum and as I alluded above cold hardy from zones 3-9. It can grow tall, 4 to 10 feet, and colonize, so it is a plant for the back of the border. Here at the Coastal Georgia Botanical Gardens ours are around 7 feet.

Though it may be hard to imagine, they can dwarf a brown-eyed Susan, Rudbeckia triloba, or a Brazilan sage, Salvia guaranitica, both also considered large plants and terrific partners for the cup plant. Close by, we have the pagoda flower Clerodendrum paniculatum, Java glory bower, Clerodendrum speciosissimum, as well as Baby Lace, Hydrangea paniculata, all of which do their part to bring in hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies.

You may be asking, why it’s called a cup plant. This is one of the magical attributes of the plant. As the plant grows, it develops large square stems that give the impression of piercing the center of the large leaves. It has two leaves without petioles that are attached to the stem, forming a perfect cup to collect rainwater. Small birds like finches take advantage of this natural reservoir of water. These same birds also feed on the seeds as they mature and get ready to disperse.

You’ll find the blooms to be covered in what may best be described as a pollinating frenzy. Every kind of bee, including honey bees by the hundreds, bumble bees, and wasps are there doing their thing. A quick glance on a recent morning visit showed eastern tiger swallowtails, long-tailed skippers, fiery skippers and yellow sulphur butterflies. It was like a Serengeti for pollinators. Though I didn’t see any, everyone reports hummingbirds on the plants as well.

The nature lover will find this to be one of the most thrilling plants to incorporate in the landscape. Get a chair, a pair of binoculars and a camera, and you are ready for a day of journaling. It will take some attitude adjustment for most gardeners before planting.

First, are you ready to incorporate such a tall, aster-family member into the back of the border? Second, can you accept a colonizing racehorse of a plant so to speak? Not only will you have rhizome spread but you will have reseeding. So, in other words, there will be some maintenance to confine to space allotted.

Native plant nurseries sell the plants, but they are also easy to start from seeds. Sow non-stratified seeds in the fall or stratified seeds in the spring. If you want to stratify, moisten coarse sand and seeds in a plastic bag and store in the refrigerator for three months.

Since this plant will be the backbone of your wildlife habitat or pollinator garden choose companions that are not only beautiful but will bring them in too. I’ve mentioned salvias and brown-eyed Susan’s, but Joe Pye weeds, milkweeds, and ironweeds native to your region would partner well.

Other favorites would be anise hyssops like Blue Fortune, Blue Boa, and Black Adder. They would give that complementary sizzle of opposite colors. Lastly, use the cup plant to create mystery in the garden by blocking a view and forming an area of transition.

The cup plant amazingly does it all for both wildlife and pollinators, all the while showing out with dazzling 3½-inch yellow blossoms. You have to agree that is pretty doggone special.

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