With These New Cupheas

By Norman Winter | Horticulturist, Author and Speaker

There will be a lot of temptation for gardeners this year, so many new plants are showing up at the garden center. Being the astute gardener you are, you probably can guess I am yanking your chain a little as I introduce you to the Totally Tempted cuphea series.

If you are a hummingbird lover you already know some cupheas. The Totally Tempted cupheas come in 4 color or varieties, Richly Red, Watermelon Wine, Frosted Violets and Vivid Violet. They have the potential of reaching 16-inches tall with an 18-inch spread.eas

They are known botanically as Cuphea procumbens with a common name creeping waxweed. Don’t let that name cause any concern. They are native to Southern Mexico and perennial in zones 9 and warmer. They are rock solid, tough and worth every penny as annuals in containers, whether you choose to design a mix or go solo. Your beds will also sizzle with a new artistic touch.

These caught the eye of my good friend, Dr. Allen Owings while at the Young’s Plant Farm Annual Garden Tour in Auburn AL. Allen, formerly a Horticulture Professor at LSU AgCenter is now Horticulturist for Clegg’s Nursery and Bracy’s Nursery. So when he posted the photos on Facebook they caught my attention.

Kim Smith Owner of Smiths Country Gardens in Taylorsville Indiana also went to Facebook. With her trials. She said the violet purple, blush rimmed blooms make it easy to fall in love with Totally Tempted Frosted Violets. Her antique looking urn was filled to overflowing with just Frosted Violets.

She says they are self-cleaning with a continuous blooming habit. She says her zone 5 climate dictates growing as an annual. She recommends plenty of sunlight to keep it from stretching. She went on to say trimming off a little in late July or August can help promote new growth if needed. Kim, feeds weekly with water soluble fertilizer.

Neighbor Dave and his bride Cynthia created a stunning combination in a rectangular concrete planter. They used both Totally Tempted Richly Red and Watermelon Wine with Augusta Lavender heliotrope and Virtuoso Dayglo Yellow dahlia. It is easy for The Garden Guy to peek over the fence and admire.

Son James and the Eden Estate Management team used Totally Tempted Vivid Violet in a window box with Virtuoso Vibrant Violet dahlias. And Supertunia Mini Vista Yellow petunias for a dash of contrasting color.

The Garden Guy went with the Totally Tempted red selections. In the front flower bed at the entrance I used Sunshine Blue II caryopteris with the chartreuse colored foliage. In the backyard I used both Richly Red and Watermelon Wine with the new ColorBlaze Mini Me Chartreuse coleus. In all plantings the flash of red and chartreuse dazzled with color.

Both son James and I found that cutting back kept the plants with a bushier habit. Like Kim Smith recommended, sunlight and frequent fertilization is mandatory. You will find that the Totally Tempted cupheas like others will bring in an assortment of bees, butterflies and hummingbirds. If you will check out Proven Winners Totally Tempted cupheas online you will find recipes for each color, further leading to ……you guessed it, the temptation for the 2025 new plants coming your way. Follow me on Facebook @NormanWinterTheGardenGuy for more photos and garden inspiration.

By Norman Winter | The Garden Guy

When it comes to the backyard wildlife habitat, the cup plant has it all. To me, it is the flag bearer perennial for bees, butterflies, and birds. It is a stalwart native in 34 states from Louisiana north to Canada crossing every border east. Alas however its size is quite imposing. It is big, bold and wonderful, and this is the time of the year it shines the most.

If you are getting interested but are not familiar with the cup plant, it is known botanically as Silphium perfoliatum and as I alluded above cold hardy from zones 3-9. It can grow tall, 4 to 10 feet, and colonize, so it is a plant for the back of the border. Here at the Coastal Georgia Botanical Gardens ours are around 7 feet.

Though it may be hard to imagine, they can dwarf a brown-eyed Susan, Rudbeckia triloba, or a Brazilan sage, Salvia guaranitica, both also considered large plants and terrific partners for the cup plant. Close by, we have the pagoda flower Clerodendrum paniculatum, Java glory bower, Clerodendrum speciosissimum, as well as Baby Lace, Hydrangea paniculata, all of which do their part to bring in hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies.

You may be asking, why it’s called a cup plant. This is one of the magical attributes of the plant. As the plant grows, it develops large square stems that give the impression of piercing the center of the large leaves. It has two leaves without petioles that are attached to the stem, forming a perfect cup to collect rainwater. Small birds like finches take advantage of this natural reservoir of water. These same birds also feed on the seeds as they mature and get ready to disperse.

You’ll find the blooms to be covered in what may best be described as a pollinating frenzy. Every kind of bee, including honey bees by the hundreds, bumble bees, and wasps are there doing their thing. A quick glance on a recent morning visit showed eastern tiger swallowtails, long-tailed skippers, fiery skippers and yellow sulphur butterflies. It was like a Serengeti for pollinators. Though I didn’t see any, everyone reports hummingbirds on the plants as well.

The nature lover will find this to be one of the most thrilling plants to incorporate in the landscape. Get a chair, a pair of binoculars and a camera, and you are ready for a day of journaling. It will take some attitude adjustment for most gardeners before planting.

First, are you ready to incorporate such a tall, aster-family member into the back of the border? Second, can you accept a colonizing racehorse of a plant so to speak? Not only will you have rhizome spread but you will have reseeding. So, in other words, there will be some maintenance to confine to space allotted.

Native plant nurseries sell the plants, but they are also easy to start from seeds. Sow non-stratified seeds in the fall or stratified seeds in the spring. If you want to stratify, moisten coarse sand and seeds in a plastic bag and store in the refrigerator for three months.

Since this plant will be the backbone of your wildlife habitat or pollinator garden choose companions that are not only beautiful but will bring them in too. I’ve mentioned salvias and brown-eyed Susan’s, but Joe Pye weeds, milkweeds, and ironweeds native to your region would partner well.

Other favorites would be anise hyssops like Blue Fortune, Blue Boa, and Black Adder. They would give that complementary sizzle of opposite colors. Lastly, use the cup plant to create mystery in the garden by blocking a view and forming an area of transition.

The cup plant amazingly does it all for both wildlife and pollinators, all the while showing out with dazzling 3½-inch yellow blossoms. You have to agree that is pretty doggone special.

By Ann Asher

Every year about this time, it feels like the flies start winning. No matter how clean I keep the pens or how many fly strips I hang, they show up in clouds. Over the past few summers, I’ve tried just about everything—feed-through supplements, predator bugs, DIY traps, and plenty of fly sprays. Some things helped. Some were a waste of money. If you’re battling flies this year, here’s what’s actually worked for me—and what research says can make a real difference on the farm or ranch.

Start with Cleanliness (But Know It’s Not Enough)

The first—and most repeated—advice is to stay ahead of the mess. Manure management is critical, especially around barns, pens, and loafing sheds. Flies lay eggs in fresh manure, and those eggs hatch into larvae in as little as 24 hours during warm weather.
I try to clean high-traffic areas at least every other day, but the truth is, even on the cleanest farms, flies can still be a problem because of moisture, standing water, and nearby neighbors.

Feed-Through Fly Control: A Solid Foundation

One thing that made a noticeable difference for my horses and cattle was starting a feed-through larvicide early in the season. These products add a growth regulator to the feed that passes through the animal and prevents fly larvae from developing in manure.
It’s not an instant fix—you won’t see fewer flies for several weeks—but once it kicks in, you’ll notice fewer new flies being born.

Tip: Feed-through products only work if all animals on the property are eating it consistently. Otherwise, you’re just treating part of the manure, and flies will keep breeding.

Fly Predators: Small, Mighty, and Surprisingly Effective

Last year, I tried fly predators for the first time. These are tiny, non-stinging insects that lay their eggs in fly pupae, stopping the next generation.
I was skeptical (and honestly a little creeped out at first), but I noticed that where I used predators around the barn and dry lots, the fly pressure dropped. Some companies even offer subscription services that send predators timed to your local climate.

Tip: Fly predators don’t kill adult flies—they stop future flies. So you still need to control the adults already buzzing around.

Good Old-Fashioned Fly Traps

In areas like the barn aisle and outdoor runs, nothing beats physical traps.
I like a combination approach:

• Sticky ribbons and strips for indoor areas
• Odor-baited traps placed away from livestock areas to draw flies away

Tip: Hang baited traps a good distance from barns or stalls. Otherwise, you’re luring flies right into your animals’ space.

Fly Sprays: Choose Carefully

Fly sprays are the first thing most of us reach for—and they do help—but they have limits.
For horses, sprays containing pyrethrins, pyrethroids (like permethrin), or natural oils tend to offer the best repellency. Even then, most sprays only last a few hours, especially if animals are sweating heavily.

Tip: Apply before morning turnout and again before evening if possible. Reapplication is important, especially after heavy exercise or rain.

Other Tools That Help

• Fly masks and fly sheets — particularly those with UV protection, to protect sensitive areas like the eyes and ears
• Fans in barns and run-in sheds — flies struggle to land in strong airflow
• Automatic sprayer systems — an investment, but highly effective for larger barns

The bad news? There’s no magic bullet for fly control.
The good news? Combining several methods—manure management, feed-through treatments, predators, traps, and targeted sprays—can actually make summer bearable for you and your livestock.

At the end of the day, I figure if I can cut the fly population by half, I’ve already made life better for my animals—and a lot less miserable for myself.

References:

1. Texas A&M AgriLife Extension – Managing Flies on Livestock
2. University of Kentucky Entomology – Controlling Flies Around Livestock
3. North Carolina State Extension – Livestock Pest Management
4. USDA Agricultural Research Service – Fly Management Resources
5. Spalding Labs (for info on biological control programs) – Fly Predators Information