Country Lifestyle
Tips for Winter Bird Feeding
By Michael Newell
When the temperatures turn cold and you get a little ice or snow, it is important to think of some of the smaller creatures that share our world and the struggles that they are faced with to find food on a daily basis. One sure way to lend a helping hand to the many species of songbirds that choose to stay here for the winter is to put out a bird feeder or two.
Feeding birds is lots of fun and has gotten very, very popular. In fact, a recent survey by BirdWatchingDaily.com reported that 52 million Americans feed birds or other wildlife. That is more than play golf, hunt or fish combined. There is something soothing about feeding birds, something relaxing. With all the hustle and bustle of this season, we could all use a little relaxation.
An additional benefit is if you start feeding now, then in January you can participate in the Winter Bird Feeder Survey conducted by the Oklahoma Department of Wildlife Conservation. Watch this column for more details.
There are many types of feeders on the market and each will attract different birds. There are also many different types of bird seeds on the market, and the food you put out will also determine which birds (and animals) will come to your feeders. Some birds want to eat on the ground while others prefer eating while hanging upside down! Even the size of the holes in a feeder and the length of the perches will determine which feathery guests will visit your offerings.
The Audubon society offers some good information about backyard bird feeding including types of feeders, foods and birds that might frequent your feeding station.
What type(s) of feeders should you use?
The type of bird feeder you use will determine which birds come to your yard to eat. Do you want hummingbirds, woodpeckers, orioles, chickadees, cardinals, goldfinches or doves?
Maybe your answer is “All of the above.” In this case you will need a number of different feeder types!
- Platform feeders are simply flat tables raised off the ground. Cardinals like these. Doves will eat from them, too, if they are not very far off the ground.
- Tube feeders are cylindrical tubes with openings up and down the tube — perfect for Chickadees and Goldfinches. Shorten the perches to keep larger birds away.
- Hopper feeders are bins that hold seeds that spill out of the bottom as the birds eat. Many birds will come to these — including larger birds like Blue Jays, Grackles and Starlings.
- Suet feeders are wire or mesh baskets that hold suet or pre-packaged suet cakes. Woodpeckers love these!
- Bowl feeders are hanging bowls that typically are covered by a large plastic dome to keep out the rain and snow.
- Specialized feeders include pine cones (great for lathering with peanut butter), and sharpened sticks to hold orange halves for Orioles. You can also sprinkle seeds directly on the ground — but this attracts other critters as well.
What types of food should you use?
The favorite food of most seed eating songbirds is black-oil sunflower seed. This is a small solid black seed, not to be confused with the larger striped sunflower. Birds such as cardinals, blue jays, chickadees, juncos, mourning dove and finches are especially fond of black-oil sunflower. And another nice feature is that it is not a favorite of house sparrows and starlings, two less desired species. Offer it from hopper type feeders or tube style feeders.
Niger thistle seed will appeal to goldfinches. This small seed is expensive, but goes a long way until a goldfinch feeding frenzy erupts at your feeder. A specially designed tube style feeder is needed for thistle.
Ground feeders such as bobwhite quail, towhees, and dove will also enjoy white corso millet, but spreading this may encourage unwanted visitors.
Bird feeding tips
Feeding the birds can be very simple, from putting peanut butter on a pine cone to impaling half an orange on a nail. Here are some tips from the National Wildlife Federation to help you attract the visitors you desire while discouraging some of the uninvited guests:
- Put out feeders with good size capacity: And/or use multiple feeders to provide ample food especially during snow and ice storms. There are many stores in your area that sell excellent bird feeders including bird-specific stores and most lawn and garden centers.
- Provide nutritious winter seed foods: For most birds these often include seed mixes of black oil sunflower seed, hulled peanuts, niger seed and white millet seed. Mixed seed bags can be purchased at local bird and lawn and garden stores or you can go on line and visit the Scott’s Songbird Selections website for a store locator or to learn more about wild bird feeding.
- Offer fatty food, too: Birds need to burn more calories in the winter just to stay warm. Suet is considered a high energy food because it consists of fat that has nine calories per gram compared to four calories per gram for carbohydrates or protein. Peanut Butter is also popular with our flying friends but is more expensive than suet. Suet feeders are a favorite of woodpeckers and other insect-eating birds
- Keep your feeders full: Winter birds need to stock up on calories especially for those long, cold winter nights.
- Be consistent and keep feeding through the winter: Birds grow accustomed to your feeders especially in severe weather when the snacks you offer may mean their very survival. If you leave home for an extended period, try to have a neighbor or friend keep the feeders going.
- Remember water: Birds can become dehydrated in winter even if surrounded by ice and snow. Putting out a pan of water near the feeder on warmer days is a terrific idea.
- Stamp down the snow below: Ground-feeding birds such as dark-eyed juncos, doves and many sparrows will be able to gather up the seed that drop from the feeders if they don’t have deep snow to try to manage.
- Hang feeders in cat-safe locations: Place bird feeders in locations that do not also offer hiding places for sneak-attacks by cats and other predators. Think of placing the feeders ten to twelve feet from shrubs or brush piles. This gives the birds some time to react.
- Save some money and stock up on seed: Bird feeding veterans say it is best to stock up on birdseed in the fall when many lawn and garden centers are discounting it to make way for winter merchandise. Stored properly, (in cool dry places) seed can easily last for months, particularly seed mixes and sunflower seeds.
Feeder maintenance and hygiene tips.
Cleaning birdfeeders and birdbaths is a crucial practice in preventing the spread of disease between birds. Recently, scientists noted that the spread of Trichomonad protozoan parasites, which cause a disease termed Trichomoniasis, was on the rise especially among mourning dove and band-tailed pigeon populations in the West.
You can tell if you have a disease problem at your feeders because diseased birds are less alert and less active, they feed less and may cower on a feeder, they may be reluctant to fly, and their feathers do not appear to be in good shape. Birds afflicted with Trichomoniasis typically develop sores in their mouths and throats. Unable to swallow, they drop food or water contaminated with Trichomonads that other birds then consume, thus spreading the disease.
With the concern over this and other diseases, including Salmonellosis, Aspergillosis, and Avian Pox, which are easily transmitted at birdfeeders and birdbaths, Audubon recommends paying diligent attention to cleanliness in pursuit of responsible and rewarding bird feeding practices. Birds with disease are more likely to die from starvation, dehydration, predation, and severe weather, so protect them by following these tips.
- Disinfect your feeder and birdbath: To keep pathogens at bay, immerse your seed feeder or birdbath in a nine to one water-bleach solution, rinsing it thoroughly, one to two times per month (for tips on cleaning hummingbird feeders, click here). In the presence of outbreaks, disinfect twice as often.
- Empty water from your birdbath every day: Brush or wipe it clean and rinse, then refill the birdbath with fresh water.
- Discard old seed and hulls: When you clean your feeder, get rid of the old seed. Rake or sweep up any uneaten hulls on the ground. The disease-causing Trichomonad protozoan, for example, can live for up to five days in food and several hours in water.
- Avoid overcrowding: If possible, provide more than one feeder and spread them out. Crowding only expedites the spread of disease, so give the birds variety and plenty of room.
Country Lifestyle
When Peppers Bite Back
Most of us have been there. You take a bite of something that looks harmless enough, and within seconds, your mouth is on fire. Your eyes water, your nose runs, and suddenly you’re questioning every decision that led you to that moment. Whether it’s a jalapeño that packed more punch than expected or a sauce someone swore “wasn’t that bad,” peppers have a way of keeping people humble.
There is, however, a way to measure that heat before you ever take a bite. It’s called the Scoville scale, and it’s the standard used to rank just how hot a pepper can be. The measurement is expressed in Scoville Heat Units, or SHU. The higher the number, the more heat you can expect. A bell pepper sits at zero, meaning no heat at all. Jalapeños usually land somewhere between 2,500 and 8,000 SHU, while the upper end of the scale climbs into the millions.
The system dates back to 1912, when pharmacist Wilbur Scoville developed a method to test pepper heat. His approach was simple, if not a little impractical by today’s standards. Pepper extract was diluted with sugar water until a panel of tasters could no longer detect the burn. The more dilution required, the hotter the pepper. It worked, but it depended heavily on human perception, which is far from consistent.
Today, the process is far more precise. Instead of relying on taste, scientists measure the concentration of compounds called capsaicinoids using laboratory equipment. Those numbers are then converted into Scoville Heat Units. It takes the guesswork out of the equation and gives growers, processors, and consumers a reliable way to compare peppers.
Capsaicinoids are the group of compounds responsible for heat, with capsaicin being the main contributor. Contrary to what a lot of people believe, the seeds are not where the heat lives. Most of it is concentrated in the white inner ribs of the pepper. The seeds can seem hot because they come into contact with those oils, but removing the inner ribs is the most effective way to dial the heat back while keeping the flavor.
That burning sensation you feel isn’t actually heat in the traditional sense. Capsaicin interacts with receptors in your mouth that are designed to detect pain and temperature. Your brain reads that signal as burning, even though there’s no physical damage being done at typical levels. Depending on how much you’ve had, that sensation can linger anywhere from a few minutes to well over half an hour.
One thing worth keeping in mind is that not all peppers are created equal, even within the same variety. Growing conditions, soil, weather, and maturity all play a role in how much capsaicin a pepper develops. Two jalapeños from different fields, or even different plants in the same field, can vary more than you might expect.
At the far end of the scale are peppers that push the limits of what most people would consider edible. Varieties like the Carolina Reaper have recorded levels exceeding 2 million SHU. That’s well beyond the point of casual consumption and into territory where even a small amount can be overwhelming. While some people seek that level of heat for the challenge, it’s not something to take lightly.
For everyday use, the Scoville scale is less about chasing extremes and more about making informed choices. If you know your comfort level, you can select peppers that add flavor without overpowering a dish. It also helps explain why a recipe that calls for “one pepper” can turn out very differently depending on what you pick up at the store or out of the garden.
In the end, that moment when your mouth feels like it’s on fire isn’t as mysterious as it seems. There’s a system behind it, and a little understanding of the Scoville scale can go a long way in keeping your next bite from turning into a regret.
Country Lifestyle
Pollinators on the Ranch
When most people think about wildlife on a ranch, they probably picture deer slipping through the trees, turkeys moving across a pasture or quail flushing from cover. Those species matter, and many landowners manage with them in mind. But some of the most important wildlife on a farm or ranch is much smaller. Bees, butterflies, moths, beetles, flies, wasps, hummingbirds and even bats all play a part in keeping native plants and food systems working.
Pollinators move pollen from one flower to another, which allows many plants to produce seed, fruit and the next generation of growth. That matters in gardens and orchards, but it also matters in pastures, prairies and native rangeland. According to the article provided, the United States Department of Agriculture reports that 75 percent of the world’s flowering plants and about 35 percent of the world’s food crops depend on animal pollinators to reproduce.
For Oklahoma ranchers, pollinators are more than something nice to see on a warm afternoon. They are tied to plant diversity, soil cover, wildlife habitat and the overall health of the land.
A pasture with flowers, seed-producing plants and a mix of grasses and forbs usually supports more life than a pasture with only one or two plant types. That does not mean every acre has to look wild or unmanaged. It means diversity has value. A ranch that supports many kinds of plants can also support many kinds of insects. Those insects feed birds, turkey poults, quail chicks, bats and other wildlife. Some predatory insects also help keep pest insects in check.
Pollinators are a sign that something is working. If butterflies, bees and other beneficial insects are present, the land is likely offering food, cover and seasonal blooms. If they are absent, it may be worth asking why. There may not be enough flowering plants. Grazing pressure may be too heavy at the wrong time. Herbicide use may be reducing the plants pollinators need. The issue may be drought, timing or a lack of plant variety.
The monarch butterfly is one of the best-known examples. Monarchs need milkweed because it is the only food source for their caterpillars. Adult monarchs also need nectar plants, especially during migration. Oklahoma sits in an important part of that migration route. In spring, monarchs moving north need milkweed for reproduction. In fall, monarchs moving south need blooming plants for energy before continuing toward Mexico.
That fall food source can be easy to overlook. A pasture may have plenty of grass and still offer little for a migrating butterfly if there are no flowers in bloom. Late-season plants such as Maximilian sunflower, blazing star, goldenrod, asters and cowpen daisy can make a difference. In the Noble Research Institute article, Will Moseley said their monarch monitoring showed a simple result: butterflies were found where flowering plants were present, and they were not found where flowers were absent.
That is a useful lesson for any landowner. Pollinator habitat does not have to be complicated. It starts with plants.
For ranchers, the goal is not to turn working land into a flower bed. The goal is to manage in a way that leaves room for useful plants to grow, bloom and set seed. Grazing management can help. If the same pasture is grazed hard at the same time every year, the same plants may get set back again and again. Changing grazing timing, leaving rest periods and avoiding overuse can give more plants a chance to bloom. Rotational grazing, when planned well, can benefit both livestock and pollinators.
Prescribed fire can also be useful when used carefully and legally. Fire timing matters. Burning every acre the same way at the same time can favor some plants and reduce others. Varying burn timing across years and pastures can create a more mixed plant community. That variety can help pollinators, ground-nesting birds and grazing animals.
Herbicide use is another consideration. There are times when herbicides are needed, especially for invasive or problem plants. But broad use can also remove the forbs that bees and butterflies depend on. Spot spraying, proper timing and targeted control can help landowners manage weeds while keeping beneficial plants in the pasture. Every place is different, so the best plan depends on the ranch’s goals, plant community and problem species.
Pollinators also need nesting sites. Not all bees live in hives. In fact, many native bees nest in the ground, hollow stems or cavities in wood. Leaving some undisturbed areas, standing stems, brushy edges or bare patches of well-drained soil can support native bees. A perfectly clean landscape is often less useful to wildlife than one with some structure and variety.
Water can help as well. Shallow water sources, damp soil or safe access around ponds and tanks can be useful, especially during dry weather. The key is to avoid drowning hazards. Small stones, floating wood or shallow edges can give insects a place to land.
For landowners interested in beekeeping, honey bees can become another small enterprise. A few hives may provide honey for family, gifts or local sales. Local honey often has a strong market, and bees can fit well on small acreages or larger ranches. Still, honey bees are livestock and need management. New beekeepers should start small, learn from an experienced mentor and understand seasonal care before investing heavily. The Noble article shared advice from Josh and Brook Gaskamp, who recommended getting a mentor, starting small and experimenting until finding what works.
Beekeeping is not the only way to support pollinators, though. A person can help pollinators without owning a single hive. Planting native flowers, protecting milkweed, reducing unnecessary pesticide use and allowing some areas to bloom can all help. Even fence rows, field corners, creek banks and lightly used areas can become valuable habitat when managed with pollinators in mind.
Pollinators also add enjoyment to the land. There is something rewarding about seeing monarchs on fall flowers, bumble bees working a patch of blooms or hummingbirds visiting trumpet-shaped flowers near the house. Those moments remind landowners that a ranch is more than livestock, fences and forage. It is a living system.
For many producers, the practical reason to care about pollinators is simple. What helps pollinators often helps the whole ranch. More plant diversity can mean better soil cover, more wildlife habitat, more insects for birds, more seasonal forage options and a landscape that can better handle stress. Pollinators are part of that bigger picture.
A ranch does not have to be managed only for bees or butterflies to benefit them. In many cases, good land stewardship already points in the right direction. Avoid overgrazing. Encourage plant diversity. Leave some blooms. Be careful with chemicals. Think about timing. Watch what shows up.
The smallest wildlife on the ranch can tell a big story about the health of the land. When the flowers are blooming and the pollinators are working, it is a good sign the pasture is doing more than growing grass. It is supporting life from the ground up.
Country Lifestyle
Apple Fritter Quick Bread
Total Time: 1 hour and 40 minutes
Servings: 10
2 medium apples (any type), peeled, cored & diced
1/3 cup brown sugar
1 tsp cinnamon
1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened
2/3 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs
1 1/2 tsp vanilla extract
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 3/4 tsp baking powder
1/2 cup milk
For the Glaze:
- 1/2 cup (60g) powdered sugar
1–2 tbsp milk
1/4 tsp vanilla extract
Instructions:
Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease and line a 9×5-inch loaf pan with parchment paper.
Peel and chop apples and place in a bowl with brown sugar and cinnamon. Toss and set aside.
In a large mixing bowl, cream together butter and granulated sugar until light and fluffy. Beat in eggs one at a time, then add vanilla. In a separate bowl, whisk together flour and baking powder. Gradually add dry ingredients to the butter mixture, alternating with milk, mixing until just combined.
Next, pour half of the batter into the loaf pan, top with half of the apple mixture, then repeat with remaining batter and apples. Lightly swirl with a knife for a marbled effect.
Bake for 50–55 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
Cool in pan for 10 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.
In a small bowl, whisk together powdered sugar, milk, and vanilla until smooth. Drizzle over cooled bread.
Slice and enjoy warm or at room temperature.
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