Oklahoma is home to a wide range of wildlife, and snakes are a regular part of life for anyone who spends time outdoors. From ranchers and farmers to hunters, hikers, and rural landowners, most Oklahomans will eventually cross paths with a snake. While the majority of species found in the state are harmless, there are a handful that deserve extra respect.

Many people believe Oklahoma has only three venomous snake species. In reality, the state has seven venomous species, but they fall into three main groups that are helpful to understand: rattlesnakes, copperheads, and cottonmouths. All of Oklahoma’s venomous snakes belong to the pit viper family, meaning they share similar physical traits and hunting behaviors.

Knowing what these snakes look like, where they live, and how they behave goes a long way toward reducing the risk of an unpleasant encounter.

Rattlesnakes

Rattlesnakes are the most recognizable venomous snakes in Oklahoma, largely thanks to the rattle at the end of their tails. That rattle is designed as a warning system, alerting large animals — including people — that they are too close for comfort.

Oklahoma has several species of rattlesnakes, ranging from large, heavy-bodied snakes found in western parts of the state to smaller species that prefer grasslands and rocky areas. They are commonly encountered in open rangeland, rocky outcrops, brushy pastures, and along fence lines. Rattlesnakes are also known to seek shelter under equipment, boards, or debris, especially during extreme heat or cooler months.

Despite their reputation, rattlesnakes are not aggressive. They typically remain still and rely on camouflage until a threat gets too close. While the rattle is often used as a warning, it’s important to understand that a rattlesnake may not always rattle before striking. Some rattles are damaged or broken, and a snake that feels suddenly threatened may strike defensively without warning.

Rattlesnake venom is hemotoxic, meaning it damages tissue and affects blood clotting. Any bite should be treated as a medical emergency, even if symptoms initially seem mild.

Copperheads

Copperheads are among the most frequently encountered venomous snakes in Oklahoma, particularly in the eastern half of the state. They are masters of camouflage, blending easily into leaf litter, brush piles, wooded creek bottoms, and rocky terrain.

Most copperheads are relatively modest in size, typically measuring between one and three feet long. Their most recognizable feature is the pattern of darker bands along their bodies, often described as hourglass-shaped. This pattern helps them disappear into the forest floor, which is why copperheads are often stepped on accidentally.

Copperheads rely heavily on remaining still rather than fleeing, which increases the chance of a close encounter. Many bites occur when someone unknowingly steps near or directly on a snake that never attempted to move away.

Although copperhead venom is generally considered less potent than that of some rattlesnakes, bites are still serious and require immediate medical attention. Pain, swelling, and tissue damage are common, and prompt treatment can prevent complications.

Cottonmouths

Cottonmouths, also known as water moccasins, are Oklahoma’s primary semi-aquatic venomous snake. They are most often found near water sources such as slow-moving streams, ponds, swamps, and marshy areas, particularly in southeastern Oklahoma.

Cottonmouths are thick-bodied snakes that can grow several feet long. Their coloration is often dark, sometimes making them difficult to distinguish from nonvenomous water snakes. One defining behavior gives them their name: when threatened, a cottonmouth may open its mouth wide, displaying a bright white interior as a warning.

While cottonmouths are commonly associated with water, they do travel over land and may be encountered on trails, levees, or near livestock ponds. Like other pit vipers, they prefer to avoid confrontation and rely on defensive displays rather than aggression.

Cottonmouth venom is hemotoxic and can cause significant pain, swelling, and tissue damage. As with any venomous snakebite, immediate medical care is critical.

All of Oklahoma’s venomous snakes share several general characteristics. They have broad, triangular-shaped heads, heat-sensing pits between the eyes and nostrils, and vertical pupils. While these traits can help with identification, it’s safest to avoid attempting close inspection altogether.

Most snake bites happen when people try to kill, handle, or move snakes. Others occur when visibility is poor and a snake is accidentally surprised. Simple precautions can significantly reduce risk: watching where you step or reach, wearing boots in tall grass or rocky areas, and giving snakes plenty of space when they are spotted.

Venomous snakes play an important role in Oklahoma’s ecosystems by controlling rodent populations and maintaining balance among prey species. While it’s natural to feel uneasy around them, understanding their behavior helps replace fear with awareness.

Venomous snakes are a fact of life in rural Oklahoma, but encounters rarely end in injury when people remain alert and respectful. Recognizing that Oklahoma’s venomous snakes fall into three main groups — rattlesnakes, copperheads, and cottonmouths — makes identification simpler and helps people make safer decisions outdoors.

With a little knowledge and caution, Oklahomans can continue to work the land, enjoy the outdoors, and coexist with these often-misunderstood animals that have been part of the landscape long before fences, barns, or back roads ever existed.

With These New Cupheas

By Norman Winter | Horticulturist, Author and Speaker

There will be a lot of temptation for gardeners this year, so many new plants are showing up at the garden center. Being the astute gardener you are, you probably can guess I am yanking your chain a little as I introduce you to the Totally Tempted cuphea series.

If you are a hummingbird lover you already know some cupheas. The Totally Tempted cupheas come in 4 color or varieties, Richly Red, Watermelon Wine, Frosted Violets and Vivid Violet. They have the potential of reaching 16-inches tall with an 18-inch spread.eas

They are known botanically as Cuphea procumbens with a common name creeping waxweed. Don’t let that name cause any concern. They are native to Southern Mexico and perennial in zones 9 and warmer. They are rock solid, tough and worth every penny as annuals in containers, whether you choose to design a mix or go solo. Your beds will also sizzle with a new artistic touch.

These caught the eye of my good friend, Dr. Allen Owings while at the Young’s Plant Farm Annual Garden Tour in Auburn AL. Allen, formerly a Horticulture Professor at LSU AgCenter is now Horticulturist for Clegg’s Nursery and Bracy’s Nursery. So when he posted the photos on Facebook they caught my attention.

Kim Smith Owner of Smiths Country Gardens in Taylorsville Indiana also went to Facebook. With her trials. She said the violet purple, blush rimmed blooms make it easy to fall in love with Totally Tempted Frosted Violets. Her antique looking urn was filled to overflowing with just Frosted Violets.

She says they are self-cleaning with a continuous blooming habit. She says her zone 5 climate dictates growing as an annual. She recommends plenty of sunlight to keep it from stretching. She went on to say trimming off a little in late July or August can help promote new growth if needed. Kim, feeds weekly with water soluble fertilizer.

Neighbor Dave and his bride Cynthia created a stunning combination in a rectangular concrete planter. They used both Totally Tempted Richly Red and Watermelon Wine with Augusta Lavender heliotrope and Virtuoso Dayglo Yellow dahlia. It is easy for The Garden Guy to peek over the fence and admire.

Son James and the Eden Estate Management team used Totally Tempted Vivid Violet in a window box with Virtuoso Vibrant Violet dahlias. And Supertunia Mini Vista Yellow petunias for a dash of contrasting color.

The Garden Guy went with the Totally Tempted red selections. In the front flower bed at the entrance I used Sunshine Blue II caryopteris with the chartreuse colored foliage. In the backyard I used both Richly Red and Watermelon Wine with the new ColorBlaze Mini Me Chartreuse coleus. In all plantings the flash of red and chartreuse dazzled with color.

Both son James and I found that cutting back kept the plants with a bushier habit. Like Kim Smith recommended, sunlight and frequent fertilization is mandatory. You will find that the Totally Tempted cupheas like others will bring in an assortment of bees, butterflies and hummingbirds. If you will check out Proven Winners Totally Tempted cupheas online you will find recipes for each color, further leading to ……you guessed it, the temptation for the 2025 new plants coming your way. Follow me on Facebook @NormanWinterTheGardenGuy for more photos and garden inspiration.

By Ann Asher

Every year about this time, it feels like the flies start winning. No matter how clean I keep the pens or how many fly strips I hang, they show up in clouds. Over the past few summers, I’ve tried just about everything—feed-through supplements, predator bugs, DIY traps, and plenty of fly sprays. Some things helped. Some were a waste of money. If you’re battling flies this year, here’s what’s actually worked for me—and what research says can make a real difference on the farm or ranch.

Start with Cleanliness (But Know It’s Not Enough)

The first—and most repeated—advice is to stay ahead of the mess. Manure management is critical, especially around barns, pens, and loafing sheds. Flies lay eggs in fresh manure, and those eggs hatch into larvae in as little as 24 hours during warm weather.
I try to clean high-traffic areas at least every other day, but the truth is, even on the cleanest farms, flies can still be a problem because of moisture, standing water, and nearby neighbors.

Feed-Through Fly Control: A Solid Foundation

One thing that made a noticeable difference for my horses and cattle was starting a feed-through larvicide early in the season. These products add a growth regulator to the feed that passes through the animal and prevents fly larvae from developing in manure.
It’s not an instant fix—you won’t see fewer flies for several weeks—but once it kicks in, you’ll notice fewer new flies being born.

Tip: Feed-through products only work if all animals on the property are eating it consistently. Otherwise, you’re just treating part of the manure, and flies will keep breeding.

Fly Predators: Small, Mighty, and Surprisingly Effective

Last year, I tried fly predators for the first time. These are tiny, non-stinging insects that lay their eggs in fly pupae, stopping the next generation.
I was skeptical (and honestly a little creeped out at first), but I noticed that where I used predators around the barn and dry lots, the fly pressure dropped. Some companies even offer subscription services that send predators timed to your local climate.

Tip: Fly predators don’t kill adult flies—they stop future flies. So you still need to control the adults already buzzing around.

Good Old-Fashioned Fly Traps

In areas like the barn aisle and outdoor runs, nothing beats physical traps.
I like a combination approach:

• Sticky ribbons and strips for indoor areas
• Odor-baited traps placed away from livestock areas to draw flies away

Tip: Hang baited traps a good distance from barns or stalls. Otherwise, you’re luring flies right into your animals’ space.

Fly Sprays: Choose Carefully

Fly sprays are the first thing most of us reach for—and they do help—but they have limits.
For horses, sprays containing pyrethrins, pyrethroids (like permethrin), or natural oils tend to offer the best repellency. Even then, most sprays only last a few hours, especially if animals are sweating heavily.

Tip: Apply before morning turnout and again before evening if possible. Reapplication is important, especially after heavy exercise or rain.

Other Tools That Help

• Fly masks and fly sheets — particularly those with UV protection, to protect sensitive areas like the eyes and ears
• Fans in barns and run-in sheds — flies struggle to land in strong airflow
• Automatic sprayer systems — an investment, but highly effective for larger barns

The bad news? There’s no magic bullet for fly control.
The good news? Combining several methods—manure management, feed-through treatments, predators, traps, and targeted sprays—can actually make summer bearable for you and your livestock.

At the end of the day, I figure if I can cut the fly population by half, I’ve already made life better for my animals—and a lot less miserable for myself.

References:

1. Texas A&M AgriLife Extension – Managing Flies on Livestock
2. University of Kentucky Entomology – Controlling Flies Around Livestock
3. North Carolina State Extension – Livestock Pest Management
4. USDA Agricultural Research Service – Fly Management Resources
5. Spalding Labs (for info on biological control programs) – Fly Predators Information