Barry Whitworth, DVM, MPH | Senior Extension Specialist | Department of Animal & Food Sciences | Ferguson College of Agriculture | Oklahoma State University

Foot issues are a common finding in sheep and goat operations. According to a 2011 Sheep Study conducted by the United States Department of Agriculture, footrot was found in 37.3% sheep operations. In the 2009 Goat Study, “symptoms of sores on hoof area with foul odor” were found in 6.6% of all the operations. Some studies indicate the issue increases with herd size.  

Several factors contribute to the disease, but the main bacterium involved is Dichelobacter nodosus. The bacterium is contagious and does not survive long outside the host. However, the bacterium will live for years in the feet of sheep and goats. The bacterium has many strains. In general, they can be classified as benign or virulent. Virulent strains are able to destroy the horn. Benign strains do little or no damage to the horn.

Two other bacteria may play a role in footrot. Fusobacterium necrophorum, which causes foot scald, is a common inhabitant of the digestive tract of ruminants. It does not appear to be contagious. This bacterium usually contributes to the development of footrot. Some experts believe that foot scald is a precursor to footrot. One other bacterium that may contribute to the development of footrot or footscald is Trueperella pyogenes. This bacterium may increase the susceptibility of the hoof to the other two bacteria. This bacterium is found in the environment and is associated with foot abscesses. 

The first sign of foot scald is usually lameness. In foot scald, the space between the claws may appear red, hairless, swollen, and moist. No odor is present, and the condition tends to improve with dry weather.  

In comparison, footrot will have the same clinical signs as foot scald but the signs will be more severe. The space between the claws will be necrotic and the hoof will be affected. The foot will have a foul odor. In severe infection, the hoof wall will separate from the pedal bone. The condition is highly contagious and will spread rapidly through the flock.

Both footrot and foot scald are usually diagnosed on clinical signs. The presence of a foul odor is important to separate footrot from foot scald. A definitive diagnosis is based on culturing the bacteria from the foot.

Several management tools need to be used when dealing with footrot. Studies show a significant improvement in overall herd lameness when lame animals were separated from the flock. Sheep infected with Dichelobacter nodosus that causes footrot continue to shed the organism for a period of time after treatment. If left in the herd, these animals contaminate pastures and facilities which contribute to the spread of bacteria. Lame animals need to be isolated until they are healed.

Research has demonstrated that there is a benefit to early identification and prompt treatment of lame sheep. Sheep need to be observed daily for health issues. Studies show that treatment should be initiated within 3 days of lameness. Any animal found to be lame needs to be treated promptly with a long-acting antibiotic and topical antibiotic. Their feet should not be trimmed at this time. Trimming infected feet delays healing.

Another management tool is the use of foot baths. Using a foot bath during a footrot outbreak has been found to reduce lameness. Copper sulfate, formalin, and zinc sulfate may be used in foot baths, but a 10% zinc sulfate solution is preferred. 

Lastly, significant improvement in a flock can be made by culling lame sheep. Sheep requiring 2 or more treatments should be culled. Removing chronically infected sheep from the flock reduces a significant source of the bacteria which should lower the spread of the disease. Culling will improve the economics of the flock by decreasing labor time and money associated with treating footrot. It is also recommended not to keep lambs from culled ewes with footrot for replacement ewes.

Preventing footrot begins with proper nutrition. Hoof health is influenced by minerals and vitamins. Special emphasis should be placed on ensuring adequate amounts of selenium, biotin, zinc, Vitamin A, and Vitamin E. Hooves should not be allowed to over grow. Routine trimming and examination will ensure a healthy foot. Facility and pasture management play an important role in controlling lameness as well. It was found in a study conducted in the United Kingdom that allowing pastures to rest 2 or more weeks had a high impact in reducing lameness in sheep. Facilities need to be kept clean and dry. Lambing pens need to be cleaned and disinfected between uses. Fences need to be maintained. This prevents neighboring animals from entering the farm which could contaminate the pasture with unwanted bacteria.

Footrot can be a frustrating disease. However, following the above practices should improve foot health. For more information about footrot in sheep and goat enterprises, producers should consult with their veterinarian or the Oklahoma State University County Cooperative Extension Service Agriculture Educator.

References

Reilly, L. A., Baird, A. N., & Pugh D., G. (2002). Diseases of the foot. In D.G. Pugh(Ed.), Sheep & Goat Medicine (pp. 225-227). W.B. Saunders Company

Witt J, Green L. Development and assessment of management practices in a flock-specific lameness control plan: A stepped-wedge trial on 44 English sheep flocks. Prev Vet Med. 2018;157:125-133.

Many ranchers across North Texas have discovered an easy, natural way to keep water troughs cleaner: add a few fish. It might sound like something from a backyard pond hobby, but keeping hardy fish such as goldfish or small koi in livestock troughs can help reduce algae, control insects, and even provide a little entertainment during daily chores.

The main benefit of adding fish is algae control. When sunlight hits the water and nutrients from dust, hay, or manure accumulate, algae blooms can appear quickly, especially in warm weather. Fish feed on the small organisms that make up the base of that algae growth. Goldfish, minnows, and koi are particularly effective at grazing on microscopic material and keeping buildup manageable.

Another advantage is mosquito control. In summer, stagnant water attracts mosquitoes, which lay eggs along the edges of the trough. A few small fish will eat the larvae before they hatch, breaking the cycle before it starts.

There’s also an element of simple enjoyment. Watching fish dart around beneath the water adds a bit of life to the barnyard, and they’re surprisingly hardy if cared for properly. Many livestock owners say once they’ve added fish, they never go back to fishless troughs.

Despite the practical benefits, there are some important considerations before stocking your trough. The success of fish in small water containers depends on size, sunlight, and maintenance.

Smaller troughs heat and cool quickly, so temperature swings can stress fish. Metal troughs exposed to full sun get hotter than shaded plastic or concrete ones. When possible, locate the trough where it gets partial shade and is deep enough for fish to retreat from temperature extremes.

Choosing and Caring for Fish

Goldfish are the most common choice because they tolerate temperature changes, low oxygen levels, and variable water conditions better than most species. They’re inexpensive, easy to find, and don’t require a filtration system if the water is changed regularly.

A few general guidelines make the difference between a thriving setup and a short-lived one:

Begin with only two or three fish per 100 gallons of water. Overcrowding leads to oxygen depletion, which is the main reason fish die in troughs.

Feed stores and local pet shops often sell small feeder goldfish or minnows at low cost. Avoid releasing fish from ornamental ponds or unknown sources, since they may introduce disease or parasites.

Fish should adjust slowly to temperature differences between the water they came in and the trough. Float the transport bag in the trough for 15–20 minutes, then add small amounts of trough water before releasing them.

Most fish will find enough to eat naturally — algae, insects, and organic debris. Supplementing food isn’t necessary and can actually foul the water.

While fish help limit algae, they don’t eliminate it. Every few weeks, scrub the sides of the trough lightly and refill it completely to maintain water quality. When cleaning, move the fish temporarily to a bucket with some of their old water to minimize stress.

If you use bleach, copper sulfate, or any algaecide in your tanks, the fish will not survive. Once fish are introduced, rely on natural cleaning and partial water changes instead of additives.

Most animals quickly get used to fish in their tanks and don’t bother them. If a horse or cow tends to stir the water excessively or dump feed in the trough, install a section of wire mesh or a large rock area for the fish to hide under.

Winter Care and Cold-Weather Survival

A common question is what to do when temperatures drop. In most of North Texas, you can leave the fish in the trough all winter. They tolerate cold far better than people expect.

When the water temperature falls, fish become sluggish and sink to the bottom where the water remains slightly warmer. Even when ice forms on top, they usually survive without issue as long as the trough isn’t completely frozen solid.

If your tanks regularly freeze over, here are a few tips:

Keep a small opening in the ice to allow oxygen exchange. You can gently pour a small pot of warm (not boiling) water on one spot or set in a floating object so the ice forms around it and leaves a gap.

Avoid breaking thick ice with force. The shock and vibration can stress or kill fish.

Don’t move the fish indoors unless the tank will freeze solid. Sudden temperature changes are more harmful than cold water itself.

Fish can overwinter outside just fine if there’s some depth — at least 18 to 24 inches — and no complete freeze-through. In fact, many people report their fish living for several years in the same trough, even through occasional hard freezes.

If you use a stock tank heater for livestock, that’s perfectly fine for the fish too, as long as it doesn’t raise the water temperature dramatically. They’ll appreciate the small patch of open water and the stable oxygen exchange.

During cold months, fish won’t need food. Their metabolism slows, and uneaten feed can decay and foul the water. Once temperatures climb again in spring, they’ll become more active.

Even with the best care, fish sometimes die suddenly due to poor water quality or low oxygen. Murky water, slimy buildup, or a sulfur-like smell are warning signs. Dumping and refilling the tank usually fixes the problem. If losses are frequent, check for contamination from feed, manure, or chemicals.

It’s also worth knowing that goldfish reproduce quickly. If your trough has a gravel bottom or lots of algae, you might end up with more fish than you started with by midsummer. A few extra can be rehomed in a garden pond or given away, but be careful not to release them into creeks or natural ponds — that can harm native species.

Adding fish to water troughs isn’t new, but more landowners are rediscovering its usefulness. It’s a low-maintenance, inexpensive, and surprisingly effective way to help keep tanks clearer, reduce insects, and add a little charm to daily chores.

For the most part, the system takes care of itself. A handful of goldfish or minnows, a little common sense, and routine cleaning are all it takes. Come winter, just leave them be — odds are they’ll be waiting under the ice when spring rolls around, ready to start another season of quiet work in your stock tank.

References

Texas A&M AgriLife Extension – Managing Water Quality for Livestock and Wildlife.

Oklahoma State University Extension – Farm Pond Ecology and Fish Care Basics.

Texas Parks & Wildlife Department – Small Pond and Trough Fish Management Guidelines.

North Central Texas Council of Governments – Water Conservation for Rural Landowners.

Oklahoma Department of Agriculture, Food & Forestry – Livestock Water Tank Maintenance Resources.

Winter brings its own set of challenges. For ranchers and horse owners, few are more pressing than keeping water available. Cold weather, frozen tanks, and ice buildup can cut animals off from the single most important nutrient. Cattle can survive on short pasture and horses can get by on hay, but without water, everything stops. Hydration affects digestion, body temperature regulation, and overall health. That’s why every winter, producers across Oklahoma and North Texas turn their focus to one essential question: how do you keep water flowing when the mercury drops?

The struggle against frozen water isn’t new. Generations before electricity, rural families learned to outsmart the cold with ingenuity and grit.

Chopping Ice – One of the oldest solutions was also the most labor-intensive: grabbing an ax or a bar and breaking ice daily. While effective, this method demands constant attention and becomes impractical during long cold snaps. Horses and cattle can quickly fall behind on intake if a rancher misses even a few hours.

Windmills and Groundwater – Traditional windmills pumping from underground aquifers often provided water that was warmer than surface tanks, since groundwater stays at a relatively stable temperature year-round. Many old ranches still rely on this method, though windmill upkeep is a challenge in itself.

Insulated or Buried Lines – Families learned to bury water lines below the frost line or wrap them with insulating material. That practice continues today, and it remains one of the most effective long-term strategies for preventing frozen pipes.

Floating Devices – Ranchers also improvised with floating logs, balls, or even old tires in stock tanks. The movement helped keep ice from sealing solid and gave livestock a space to drink. While not foolproof, the idea is still used in remote areas.

These methods show the persistence of rural people, but modern technology has added new tools to the fight.

Today, ranchers and horse owners have a wide menu of winter water solutions, ranging from simple add-ons to major investments.

Heated Waterers – Electric or propane-powered waterers remain the most reliable way to ensure animals never face ice. Available in tank heaters, floating units, or fully enclosed automatic waterers, they keep temperatures above freezing even during prolonged cold. The trade-off is cost: electricity bills can spike, and in rural areas, running lines to distant tanks may not be practical. Still, for barns, lots, and heavily used pastures, heated waterers are a standard tool.

Solar Solutions – Where electricity isn’t available, solar-powered heaters have gained traction. Panels run small heating elements or pumps, reducing reliance on grid power. Though initial costs are high, they provide independence and sustainability, especially in sunny but cold climates.

Geothermal Systems – Some operations use earth’s steady underground temperature to keep water from freezing. By burying lines or tanks and tapping into geothermal exchange, water stays at safe levels without heavy energy use. These systems are especially effective when designed into new construction.

Automatic Waterers with Constant Flow – In some cases, ranchers use systems that keep water trickling constantly. Movement prevents ice buildup, though it can waste water if not carefully managed. This method works best where water supply is abundant and low-cost.

Tank Additives – While chemicals are never recommended for human or animal safety, some producers use nontoxic dyes or floating covers to limit algae and ice. These are niche options, but they illustrate the creativity at play.

Practical Ranch Hacks – Many ranchers mix and match. Submersible de-icers paired with insulated tank covers, old truck hoods repurposed as windbreaks, or even placing tanks on south-facing slopes to maximize sun exposure can make the difference between usable and frozen water.

Why does all this matter so much? Because winter dehydration can have cascading effects. Horses, for instance, are prone to impaction colic when water intake drops. Cattle that can’t drink freely eat less feed, lose weight, and struggle to maintain body condition. Calves and older animals are especially vulnerable. Even wildlife around a farm benefits from accessible water sources.

Beyond animal health, reliable winter water reduces labor stress. Instead of breaking ice in multiple tanks at dawn and dusk, producers with dependable systems can focus on feeding, calving prep, or other winter tasks. In a season where daylight is short and weather unpredictable, those saved hours are invaluable.

Water is the lifeblood of the ranch, and winter tests every producer’s ability to keep it flowing. From chopping ice with an ax to installing solar-powered heaters, solutions have evolved, but the goal is the same: hydration without interruption.

For some, a floating log and a good bar might still get the job done. For others, investment in heated automatic waterers pays off every year. The choice depends on herd size, geography, and budget. What unites them is the understanding that winter water is not optional. It is essential, and it always will be.

References

Oklahoma State University Extension. Winter Livestock Water Management. https://extension.okstate.edu

Texas A&M AgriLife Extension. Cold Weather Livestock Care. https://agrilifeextension.tamu.edu

University of Minnesota Extension. Horse Hydration and Colic in Winter.

USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service. Livestock Watering Systems.

Aermotor Windmill Company. Windmills and Water Supply.