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Bass Biology

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Bass fishing time is here

By Michael Newell

March and April are some of the best times to start focusing on big bass that are awakening from the winter doldrums and looking for a good meal. It also marks the nearing of spawning season, the time that makes anglers across the country salivate.

It is not too early to start planning a fishing trip, and to help you do just that I’ve included some tips from fisheries, biologists, and professional anglers to help make your outing more successful, no matter when you go. I have also included some tips to help make sure that your equipment is in prime condition for the upcoming season.

When talking about early bass fishing it helps to break the time leading up to the spawning season into early pre-spawn and late pre-spawn. Fish react differently in these two time periods and patterns used to catch them must be adapted to the condition.

Early Pre-Spawn

As cold-blooded animals, bass spend their winter in fairly deep water in energy-conservation mode. Although they’ll still eat when food is available, the cold water lowers their metabolism to the point that they don’t need to eat much to survive.

Bass typically become active in water depths of 20 to 30 feet, and when surface temperatures warm above 44 degrees.

This is the time when the female bass begins to fill out her egg skeins, and she needs groceries to do this. Baitfish and crawfish are favorite meals, and being cold-blooded themselves, are easy pickings for predatory bass because they move slowly and not far due to low energy reserves.

Keep this point in mind when presenting your artificial lure to these bass. Early bass instinctively refuse to chase a fast-moving lure or one that has a lot of action, because it’s out of synch with nature.

To grow and develop those eggs, Mama Bass needs to consume more calories than she expends to catch her meal, so if it isn’t delivered to her doorstep, she isn’t buying it.

Until water temperatures warm above 50 degrees, fish deep with a horizontal presentation.

“Since bass are sluggish, I’ll use a slow presentation. In any season, I use search lures to find active bass. In winter, I prefer ones that draw strikes without moving fast. Suspending jerkbaits are my favorite winter artificials,” said four-time Bassmaster Classic champion, Kevin VanDam. “The fact that you can fish these lures in the same place for long periods of time makes them extremely deadly on suspending bass.”

Leadhead grubs also work great in these conditions, they probe vertical and fast sloping structure efficiently. The same goes for jigs, metal blade baits and spoons.

Late Pre-Spawn

After water surface temps rise above 50, but before bass build their nest to spawn, is the best time to catch huge bass.

This is the period when experienced bass anglers always seem to call in sick for work to play hooky. With the longer daylight hours and warming water in the shallows, largemouth begin to feel their oats, and they go on a major feeding binge.

They follow main lake points and secondary points as highways to the shallow flats, and will congregate on points where they can ambush baitfish as they swim past, and crayfish crawling out from under rocks. You may find these aggressive bruisers anywhere from three to 15 feet deep, but often the most aggressive bass will be the shallowest.

Every lake has lots of water in this depth zone, but the most productive areas are predictable regardless of your experience level. The key is to fish the areas where the shallows are first to warm. Most areas have prevailing southerly winds, and as the sunlight warms the surface water, the wind then pushes this warmer water to the northern shoreline, where it collects in pockets.

Additionally, this same water is exposed to sunlight the longest compared to other areas of the lake, due to the low angle of the sun. Simply put, northern shorelines warm first, so bass are attracted to them for spawning.

Spawning is more successful in preserving the species the earlier it occurs, since this gives young-of-year bass fry the most time to grow to fingerling size prior to the hardships of winter, increasing their odds for survival. Use this knowledge to guide your efforts to northern shorelines with good sun exposure and hard bottoms.

Soft or silt bottoms are low odds for success, as silt kills bass eggs through suffocation.

Look for rocky bottoms, particularly on flats in coves protected from the wind, and near deep water. Although wind pushes warm water into coves and pockets, too much stirs up silt, reducing the ability of sunlight to incubate the eggs, and increasing the odds of oxygen deprivation.

Not all bass read the same time schedule, so don’t expect them to be in the same phase of spawn. The first bass to move into the shallows are often the largest, as they demand more groceries and claim the best hunting and spawning areas for themselves. For every bass that has moved shallow, there are dozens more behind the boat in deeper water.

Because they are scattered, use reaction baits that allow you to cover large areas quickly. One of my favorites is a lipless, vibrating crankbait, such as the Rat-L-Trap. These are great search baits, since it casts a mile and covers the five-foot depth zone efficiently.

“I pick up my fishing pace considerably as the water hits around 52 degrees,” said KVD. “I may run down a bank while quickly throwing a Red Eye Shad or spinnerbait, then pause to pitch a jig when I come to a submerged log or brush pile.”

Another favorite of anglers for these bass are suspending jerkbaits The long, slender baitfish imitators makes a seductive wiggle with each pull of the rod tip, and when paused quickly with momentary slack, actually backs up a little and suspends in the face of following lunkers. This is more than a hungry bass can withstand, so they flare their gills and suck in the bait along with a gallon of water. This is also the bait that helped to win the recent Bassmaster Classic.

Remember, with the warming water bass are feisty, and now they want an erratic action that gets their attention, and in a size that they expect to see, since bait that survived the winter is already about four inches long. You can also use suspending crankbaits that dive five or more feet. The suspending feature is important this time of the year because a stop-and-go retrieve works best, and if the bait floated it would move out of the strike zone each time you stopped your lure.

Read more in the latest issue of Oklahoma Farm & Ranch.

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Venomous Snakes of Oklahoma: What You’re Most Likely to Encounter

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Oklahoma is home to a wide range of wildlife, and snakes are a regular part of life for anyone who spends time outdoors. From ranchers and farmers to hunters, hikers, and rural landowners, most Oklahomans will eventually cross paths with a snake. While the majority of species found in the state are harmless, there are a handful that deserve extra respect.

Many people believe Oklahoma has only three venomous snake species. In reality, the state has seven venomous species, but they fall into three main groups that are helpful to understand: rattlesnakes, copperheads, and cottonmouths. All of Oklahoma’s venomous snakes belong to the pit viper family, meaning they share similar physical traits and hunting behaviors.

Knowing what these snakes look like, where they live, and how they behave goes a long way toward reducing the risk of an unpleasant encounter.

Rattlesnakes

Rattlesnakes are the most recognizable venomous snakes in Oklahoma, largely thanks to the rattle at the end of their tails. That rattle is designed as a warning system, alerting large animals — including people — that they are too close for comfort.

Oklahoma has several species of rattlesnakes, ranging from large, heavy-bodied snakes found in western parts of the state to smaller species that prefer grasslands and rocky areas. They are commonly encountered in open rangeland, rocky outcrops, brushy pastures, and along fence lines. Rattlesnakes are also known to seek shelter under equipment, boards, or debris, especially during extreme heat or cooler months.

Despite their reputation, rattlesnakes are not aggressive. They typically remain still and rely on camouflage until a threat gets too close. While the rattle is often used as a warning, it’s important to understand that a rattlesnake may not always rattle before striking. Some rattles are damaged or broken, and a snake that feels suddenly threatened may strike defensively without warning.

Rattlesnake venom is hemotoxic, meaning it damages tissue and affects blood clotting. Any bite should be treated as a medical emergency, even if symptoms initially seem mild.

Copperheads

Copperheads are among the most frequently encountered venomous snakes in Oklahoma, particularly in the eastern half of the state. They are masters of camouflage, blending easily into leaf litter, brush piles, wooded creek bottoms, and rocky terrain.

Most copperheads are relatively modest in size, typically measuring between one and three feet long. Their most recognizable feature is the pattern of darker bands along their bodies, often described as hourglass-shaped. This pattern helps them disappear into the forest floor, which is why copperheads are often stepped on accidentally.

Copperheads rely heavily on remaining still rather than fleeing, which increases the chance of a close encounter. Many bites occur when someone unknowingly steps near or directly on a snake that never attempted to move away.

Although copperhead venom is generally considered less potent than that of some rattlesnakes, bites are still serious and require immediate medical attention. Pain, swelling, and tissue damage are common, and prompt treatment can prevent complications.

Cottonmouths

Cottonmouths, also known as water moccasins, are Oklahoma’s primary semi-aquatic venomous snake. They are most often found near water sources such as slow-moving streams, ponds, swamps, and marshy areas, particularly in southeastern Oklahoma.

Cottonmouths are thick-bodied snakes that can grow several feet long. Their coloration is often dark, sometimes making them difficult to distinguish from nonvenomous water snakes. One defining behavior gives them their name: when threatened, a cottonmouth may open its mouth wide, displaying a bright white interior as a warning.

While cottonmouths are commonly associated with water, they do travel over land and may be encountered on trails, levees, or near livestock ponds. Like other pit vipers, they prefer to avoid confrontation and rely on defensive displays rather than aggression.

Cottonmouth venom is hemotoxic and can cause significant pain, swelling, and tissue damage. As with any venomous snakebite, immediate medical care is critical.

All of Oklahoma’s venomous snakes share several general characteristics. They have broad, triangular-shaped heads, heat-sensing pits between the eyes and nostrils, and vertical pupils. While these traits can help with identification, it’s safest to avoid attempting close inspection altogether.

Most snake bites happen when people try to kill, handle, or move snakes. Others occur when visibility is poor and a snake is accidentally surprised. Simple precautions can significantly reduce risk: watching where you step or reach, wearing boots in tall grass or rocky areas, and giving snakes plenty of space when they are spotted.

Venomous snakes play an important role in Oklahoma’s ecosystems by controlling rodent populations and maintaining balance among prey species. While it’s natural to feel uneasy around them, understanding their behavior helps replace fear with awareness.

Venomous snakes are a fact of life in rural Oklahoma, but encounters rarely end in injury when people remain alert and respectful. Recognizing that Oklahoma’s venomous snakes fall into three main groups — rattlesnakes, copperheads, and cottonmouths — makes identification simpler and helps people make safer decisions outdoors.

With a little knowledge and caution, Oklahomans can continue to work the land, enjoy the outdoors, and coexist with these often-misunderstood animals that have been part of the landscape long before fences, barns, or back roads ever existed.

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You Will Be Totally Tempted

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With These New Cupheas

By Norman Winter | Horticulturist, Author and Speaker

There will be a lot of temptation for gardeners this year, so many new plants are showing up at the garden center. Being the astute gardener you are, you probably can guess I am yanking your chain a little as I introduce you to the Totally Tempted cuphea series.

If you are a hummingbird lover you already know some cupheas. The Totally Tempted cupheas come in 4 color or varieties, Richly Red, Watermelon Wine, Frosted Violets and Vivid Violet. They have the potential of reaching 16-inches tall with an 18-inch spread.eas

They are known botanically as Cuphea procumbens with a common name creeping waxweed. Don’t let that name cause any concern. They are native to Southern Mexico and perennial in zones 9 and warmer. They are rock solid, tough and worth every penny as annuals in containers, whether you choose to design a mix or go solo. Your beds will also sizzle with a new artistic touch.

These caught the eye of my good friend, Dr. Allen Owings while at the Young’s Plant Farm Annual Garden Tour in Auburn AL. Allen, formerly a Horticulture Professor at LSU AgCenter is now Horticulturist for Clegg’s Nursery and Bracy’s Nursery. So when he posted the photos on Facebook they caught my attention.

Kim Smith Owner of Smiths Country Gardens in Taylorsville Indiana also went to Facebook. With her trials. She said the violet purple, blush rimmed blooms make it easy to fall in love with Totally Tempted Frosted Violets. Her antique looking urn was filled to overflowing with just Frosted Violets.

She says they are self-cleaning with a continuous blooming habit. She says her zone 5 climate dictates growing as an annual. She recommends plenty of sunlight to keep it from stretching. She went on to say trimming off a little in late July or August can help promote new growth if needed. Kim, feeds weekly with water soluble fertilizer.

Neighbor Dave and his bride Cynthia created a stunning combination in a rectangular concrete planter. They used both Totally Tempted Richly Red and Watermelon Wine with Augusta Lavender heliotrope and Virtuoso Dayglo Yellow dahlia. It is easy for The Garden Guy to peek over the fence and admire.

Son James and the Eden Estate Management team used Totally Tempted Vivid Violet in a window box with Virtuoso Vibrant Violet dahlias. And Supertunia Mini Vista Yellow petunias for a dash of contrasting color.

The Garden Guy went with the Totally Tempted red selections. In the front flower bed at the entrance I used Sunshine Blue II caryopteris with the chartreuse colored foliage. In the backyard I used both Richly Red and Watermelon Wine with the new ColorBlaze Mini Me Chartreuse coleus. In all plantings the flash of red and chartreuse dazzled with color.

Both son James and I found that cutting back kept the plants with a bushier habit. Like Kim Smith recommended, sunlight and frequent fertilization is mandatory. You will find that the Totally Tempted cupheas like others will bring in an assortment of bees, butterflies and hummingbirds. If you will check out Proven Winners Totally Tempted cupheas online you will find recipes for each color, further leading to ……you guessed it, the temptation for the 2025 new plants coming your way. Follow me on Facebook @NormanWinterTheGardenGuy for more photos and garden inspiration.

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Cup Plant

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By Norman Winter | The Garden Guy

When it comes to the backyard wildlife habitat, the cup plant has it all. To me, it is the flag bearer perennial for bees, butterflies, and birds. It is a stalwart native in 34 states from Louisiana north to Canada crossing every border east. Alas however its size is quite imposing. It is big, bold and wonderful, and this is the time of the year it shines the most.

If you are getting interested but are not familiar with the cup plant, it is known botanically as Silphium perfoliatum and as I alluded above cold hardy from zones 3-9. It can grow tall, 4 to 10 feet, and colonize, so it is a plant for the back of the border. Here at the Coastal Georgia Botanical Gardens ours are around 7 feet.

Though it may be hard to imagine, they can dwarf a brown-eyed Susan, Rudbeckia triloba, or a Brazilan sage, Salvia guaranitica, both also considered large plants and terrific partners for the cup plant. Close by, we have the pagoda flower Clerodendrum paniculatum, Java glory bower, Clerodendrum speciosissimum, as well as Baby Lace, Hydrangea paniculata, all of which do their part to bring in hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies.

You may be asking, why it’s called a cup plant. This is one of the magical attributes of the plant. As the plant grows, it develops large square stems that give the impression of piercing the center of the large leaves. It has two leaves without petioles that are attached to the stem, forming a perfect cup to collect rainwater. Small birds like finches take advantage of this natural reservoir of water. These same birds also feed on the seeds as they mature and get ready to disperse.

You’ll find the blooms to be covered in what may best be described as a pollinating frenzy. Every kind of bee, including honey bees by the hundreds, bumble bees, and wasps are there doing their thing. A quick glance on a recent morning visit showed eastern tiger swallowtails, long-tailed skippers, fiery skippers and yellow sulphur butterflies. It was like a Serengeti for pollinators. Though I didn’t see any, everyone reports hummingbirds on the plants as well.

The nature lover will find this to be one of the most thrilling plants to incorporate in the landscape. Get a chair, a pair of binoculars and a camera, and you are ready for a day of journaling. It will take some attitude adjustment for most gardeners before planting.

First, are you ready to incorporate such a tall, aster-family member into the back of the border? Second, can you accept a colonizing racehorse of a plant so to speak? Not only will you have rhizome spread but you will have reseeding. So, in other words, there will be some maintenance to confine to space allotted.

Native plant nurseries sell the plants, but they are also easy to start from seeds. Sow non-stratified seeds in the fall or stratified seeds in the spring. If you want to stratify, moisten coarse sand and seeds in a plastic bag and store in the refrigerator for three months.

Since this plant will be the backbone of your wildlife habitat or pollinator garden choose companions that are not only beautiful but will bring them in too. I’ve mentioned salvias and brown-eyed Susan’s, but Joe Pye weeds, milkweeds, and ironweeds native to your region would partner well.

Other favorites would be anise hyssops like Blue Fortune, Blue Boa, and Black Adder. They would give that complementary sizzle of opposite colors. Lastly, use the cup plant to create mystery in the garden by blocking a view and forming an area of transition.

The cup plant amazingly does it all for both wildlife and pollinators, all the while showing out with dazzling 3½-inch yellow blossoms. You have to agree that is pretty doggone special.

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